ISSUE NO. 31
After winning the 2022 Zalando Sustainability Award last February, Iso.Poetism conquers a new milestone while gaining international recognition. This November the brand by Tobias Birk Nielsen was awarded with one of the most prestigious prizes of the Nordics. The Wessel & Vest Fashion Prize, formerly known as Magasin du Nord Fashion Prize, gathered an international jury and mentorship program.
The selection of finalists mentioned Sophia Khaled, Nicklas Skovgaard, Birrot, and Iso.Poetism by Tobias Birk Nielsen. Among relevant participants can be found Eszter Áron, Nathalie Theodosi, Rebekka Bay, Nicolaj Reffstrup, Cecilie Thorsmark and Christopher Morency. Iso.Poetism won based on original design and craftsmanship, sustainable concept, a viable business case and digital flair. The award supported the participating brands though a mentorship program as well, that lasted months of preparation. The designers worked on their business plan, collection and presentation together with their appointed mentor.
This year marks the Prize’s tenth anniversary with a new top prize of 500,000 DKK ($73,000). «There’s so many places we would like to use the prize for. At this stage we have really pushed ourselves for way too long, like working harder than our resources actually allowed. So I really would like to start focusing on improving the team, looking into human resources».
Birk Nielsen was very surprised upon winning the Wessel & Vest Fashion Prize, but sure to have given everything he could. Focusing now onto expanding his own brand, he never forgets sustainability though. «We are very determined to have a more and more sustainable profile season by season. This award is also giving us the opportunity to invest more in new techniques».
With sustainability being a huge focus of the Nordic regions’ fashion, Iso.Poetism couldn’t be other than a profitable upcycling brand. Its founder Tobias Birk Nielsen gathers deadstock materials and discarded textiles to create his own collections.
«Of course there are a lot of really technical aspects like dyeing techniques or minimizing the use of water. But also the way that we build the communication around the brand are very focused on the concept of upcycling». The founder even reveals how set designs and installations are part of an upcycling project of the brand. This philosophy infuses the whole house to such a point where it becomes more than identifying.
The collection features a mix of some archive pieces together with some new seasonal pieces. The process was centered around sustainability and the right balance between craftsmanship and innovation. «It was a combined collection from several seasons, which I thought was showing some of the signature elements of the brand».
Iso.Poetism has already conquered the fashion scene through previous recognitions, such as the Zalando Sustainability Award. This allowed Birk Nielsen to present his collections during Copenhagen Fashion Week to an international public even more.
«It’s such an honor for me as a born and raised guy from Copenhagen to be on the city’s calendar. Suddenly this project of mine is not just an idea that I’m working on in a basement. It’s actually something out there with catwalk shows». The winning of the Wessel & Vest Fashion Prize 2022 lends to Iso.Poetism a new chance to present during CPHFW.
But nurturing his own fashion brand has not always been an easy task. «I think I got into fashion by the back door somehow. I was lucky that my graduate collection was getting media attention with a few shops asking for sales. I thought that if I ever should take the jump starting my own brand, that would be the right moment. That’s how it started».
After more recent challenges around Covid and personal matters, the brand is ready to take it to the next level. The situation feels more stable and the brand with its whole team result energized after winning the Danish award.
This year the Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize managed to gather a jury of leading industry experts in sustainable fashion businesses. CEO of Copenhagen Fashion Week and new member of BoF 500 list, Cecilie Thorsmark was ready to help new realities. Building a future proof business was one of her goals, looking for fashion businesses mastering aesthetics and sustainability. «I’m very proud to continue to support and nurture the winner of the prize through our NEWTALENT support scheme. Emerging talents are operating with high expectations of how they should be building their businesses, it’s difficult to do alone».
Working as a mentor as well, founder of GANNI Nicolaj Reffstrup focused on creativity and business vision. For Reffstrup, taking a responsible approach is crucial to push the industry forward while making the money to survive long term. «If you have a creative vision and can simultaneously rethink old systems and shift towards circularity, you’re onto something right». The original design section was then evaluated, among others, by Eszter Áron as the founder of the sustainable brand AERON.
«Everyone has a story. If you can explain visually your story, your brand’s DNA through garments, it will be different, it will be unique. The chance for originality is to have an original point of view». Áron learned firsthand what it takes to create both a visually and commercially successful collection being a designer herself. But it’s Christopher Morency, working at Vanguards and Nanushka, that curated the branding side of the competition.
Successful branding is all about consistency for Morency, who pushes for a team to seat altogether to plan consistency and messages. «Anything short of this unity will feel fragmented and confusing, branding is always the starting point. You need to clearly describe your customer, plan experiences, music, architecture, and then connect with those who share your vision».
Mentors: Anne-Sofie Møller and Sophie Bille Brahe, which established her eponymous jewelry brand in 2011. Together with CEO Anne-Sofie Møller she turned it into a global business; Nicolaj Reffstrup, one half of the husband-and-wife team behind the international sensation GANNI. Nicolaj’s background is in IT as an entrepreneur, and today his focus is on spearheading GANNI’s journey to becoming a more sustainable brand; Rebekka Bay, the fashion visionary who created COS in 2006 and has also held leadership positions at Gap and Uniqlo. In 2020, she was appointed creative director of the Finnish brand Marimekko; Silas Adler, creative director and founder of the Danish lifestyle brand Soulland. A skateboarder and graphic designer, Silas established Soulland in 2002 making homemade t-shirts prints. Today, his brand has grown into a full-sized menswear collection.
For Business/Entrepreneurship: Cecilie Thorsmark, Copenhagen Fashion Week, CEO; Saam Emme, Fashion Director, 247; Jonathan Hirsfeldt, Eytys, Co-founder, CEO; Nicolaj Reffstrup, Ganni, Founder; Tommy Ahlers, Entrepreneur and former Minister of research and education; Nathalie Theodosi, Journalist and Fashion Editor at Monocle.
For Fashion/Original design: Andreas Murkudis, Andreas Murkudis Berlin, Founder; Bengt Thornefors, Magniberg, Founder; Nina Wedell Wedellsborg, Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize, Founder; Rebekka Bay, Marimekko, Creative Director; Eszter Áron, Founder and Creative Director, AERON.
For Branding: Carla Christine Bruus Aagaard-Strube, Fashion Forum, Editor-in-Chief; Kristoffer Dahy Ernst, Euroman, Editor-in-Chief; Moussa Mchangama, In Futurum, Co-founder and Consultant; Malene Malling, Malling, Founder and Creative Director; Silas Adler, Soulland, Founder; Christopher Morency, Chief Brand Officer at Vanguards and Interim Chief Brand Officer at Nanushka.
The Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize is the Nordic region’s most influential fashion prize. It was established by the Wessel & Vett Foundation in 2012 as an expression of its core values: entrepreneurship and creativity. The Wessel & Vett Foundation was created by the descendants of department store Magasin’s founders, Emil Vett and Theodor Wessel.
ISSUE NO. 31
Lampoon is a cultural magazine.
Culture today means sustainability – in its honest meaning.
Culture has always been about human respect, tolerance. It’s not only about accepting human diversity but it’s about searching for the beauty of every human peculiarity.
Inclusion is the first value that defines art. Culture today means one thing only: to be part of a community, to think as a community.
Reading Lampoon, you see that these themes are smoothly aligned. A good part of the articles’ content discusses practices to restore our environment and stories about understanding the others.
Reading Lampoon, you find a dialogue between science and creativity. From sharp and edgy photo sessions to fashion, architecture, technology – the commitment is dedicated to a future that is all about us – together.
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