Paris Couture Week welcomed Haider Ackermann back to the runway with Jean Paul Gaultier

The fourth guest designer for the couture show since Gaultier retired, Ackermann tapped into the tailoring magic behind the house’s extravagant facade

Haider Ackermann – Jean Paul Gaultier’s fourth guest couturier

The house of Jean Paul Gaultier has been making waves in couture since 1996, after an already successful 20 years in ready to wear. Now that the founder has retired, the show goes on with the creative vision of guest designers. This Paris Haute Couture week was home to the fourth iteration of these collaborations, this time starring Haider Ackermann.

Haider Ackermann followed the footsteps of Sacai’s Chitose Abe, Glenn Martens, and Oliver Rousteing in having the chance to dive into the archives and presenting them in a new light for the couture show. The previous three had highlighted the hyper-glamorous side of the house, while Ackermann took a different route. 

Re-envisioning the codes of the enfant terrible’s house is no easy task, but that’s exactly what drove the collection. Ackermann tapped into the essence that he admired, which was exceptional tailoring. This led to a calmer yet perfectionist collection, far from connotations of extravagance. Despite this, he kept the shock factor and experimented, as that was the main brief he had been given. Ackermann’s sleek aesthetic turned out to be a great complement to Gaultier’s maximalism. 

Ackermann’s story and background 

The Colombian-born designer had been far from the spotlight recently. He attended the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, the birthplace of the Antwerp Six, but was expelled. This was due to uncompleted assignments, attributed to his desire to hand in work that was up to his standards. Perfectionism was, and still is, key, leading Ackermann’s tailoring to be compared to masters like Saint Laurent.   

He went on to work with several designers including John Galliano. Many brands had their eyes on Ackermann as successors to great creative designers, but he only joined Berluti, exiting after 3 seasons. He launched his eponymous label in 2001, which he now has on hold. This means that the Jean Paul Gaultier show was also his big comeback to the runway. 

His work is dynamic and spotless, and he is known to tap into cultural differences and blend dress codes. Recently, Ackermann has been the go-to for stars like Tilda Swinton and Timothée Chalamet. Perhaps the biggest compliment to his skills is being invited to be at the helms of the couture show by Jean Paul Gaultier himself. He has stated in interviews that he values this trust placed in him very highly. 

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Dreams and magic couture show. Touches of Jean Paul Gaultier motifs

Ackermann dived straight into the feelings of dreams and magic. He created a couture collection that tapped into the essence of couture that lets people dream. Yet, the pieces weren’t caught up in the almost structural art quality of contemporary couture. The collection featured many wearable pieces too, all brought together by high level construction. 

He borrowed the feeling of magic from what he sees Jean Paul Gaultier’s earlier work to be rooted in. Taking these core concepts and softening them in his unique way, Ackermann presented a collection with small but noticeable nods to the house codes. Corsets and bustiers brought the iconic pop culture moments of Gaultier to mind. Feathers bursting from the top of a black blazer echoed past couture pieces. 

Ackermann’s brave play with colors also took center stage. A mix of blues, greens, and lilacs complemented the black gowns effortlessly. His use of contrasting linings cemented the balance of sleekness and drama. The beauty looks also featured bold colors, mismatched eyelashes, and lengthy eyeliners. The show closed with an all-white jumpsuit covered in feathers and topped off with a flowing cape. 

A song for Masha Amini and the government protests in Iran

The movement of the models down the runway added another level of magic to the show. Reliving the old-world attitude, models took their time and everything seemed to be in slow motion. This gave photographers and guests time to take in every detail and intricacy of the pieces. Gentle silhouettes and gentle movements amounted to an unforgettable view on the icy blue set. 

A beating heart as the soundtrack aided the slowness of the ambiance. The sound then morphed into a song written for Masha Amini. Her death in police custody had given rise to the ongoing government protests in Iran. Ackermann expressed his desire to stay aware of what’s happening in the world, and keep the memory of the women in Iran. With couture, there is a conversation around women, and the show was a moment of quietness to juxtapose the loudness of the world. 

Jean Paul Gaultier 2023 Couture Show

The Jean Paul Gaultier 2021 Couture Show was presented on the 25th of January in Paris. After Gaultier’s retirement from fashion, the house has been collaborating with various designers for its couture show. Haider Ackermann is the fourth designer to take the temporary role. His eponymous label is currently on hold, but the Colombian-born designer is well known in the industry for excellent tailoring and color work. 

Selin Hatunoglu