Loewe SS24: Jonathan Anderson’s exploration of craftsmanship

Lynda Benglis fountains and celebrity attendees add star power to the Loewe SS24 Menswear collection at Paris Fashion Week

Jonathan Anderson presents the Loewe SS24 Menswear collection

Jonathan Anderson presented a display of his creative vision that has been carrying Loewe to the forefronts of fashion since his appointment in 2014. Taking the oldest brand under LVMH and relating it to our modern times is not an easy task. Yet, Anderson continues to bring his peculiar tastes and merges seamlessly with the heritage of the house. 

For SS24, Anderson looked at things from a different perspective, literally. His play on proportions, evident throughout the collection, created the illusion of looking at the garments from a fisheye lens and from a low angle. High waists and elongated torsos strutted around in harmony, and everything was tied together with the surprising element of glitter. 

The show gathered significant attention with the attendance of celebrities like Emily Ratajowski, Troye Sivan, and Theo James. Perhaps the most anticipated attendee, however, was the newly crowned Loewe ambassador Taeyong, who entered the venue alongside the cheers of delighted fans. The attendance of stars from the hit show Succession was a wink at the current craze of quiet luxury and juxtaposed the not-so-quiet array of sparkling ensembles.

Lynda Benglis fountains mirroring the show – Loewe Spring Summer 24

The show was presented on the Saturday of the much-anticipated Paris Fashion Week. The La Garde Républicanine’s equestrian arena was transformed for the occasion, and three fountains by American visual artist Lynda Benglis towered gracefully in the middle of the runway. The glimmering water set the scene for what seemed to be one of the shiniest shows Loewe has seen. 

Benglis was previously celebrated as part of Loewe’s extended creative community in the FW22 campaign. She is renowned for her sculptures made of poured latex and wax paintings.  Keeping with this theme of her unconventional materials, the fountains that that embellished the venue were made from materials like bronze and glitter. Anderson’s choice to incorporate these captivating installations added a dynamic element to the collection, blurring the boundaries between art and fashion.

Loewe SS24 – from sparkles to high waists and elongated forms

When the first all-black and sparkly outfit walked out, it seemed like it was going to remain as just a strong first impression. But even just by the time the second look walked out, it was evident that the theme had been set. Glittery pants and tops came together in a surprisingly refreshing way, and felt like a statement while still remaining wearable. Delicate pastel hues, a spring staple, came in different shapes and sizes and injected waves of softness all over. 

Proportions emerged as another key theme throughout the collection, and was illustrated through the dramatically high waists tying the looks together. Jeans, trousers, and leather pants alike strutted with confidence and draped effortlessly with the models’ movements. Later, the story switched to feature elongated tops, including a white cardigan with the belt hanging mid-thigh.  

Transitional seasons entail light knits, and they were Anderson’s main weapon of choice when it came to lacing color throughout the collection. Color-blocks came both oversized and chunky, and light and fitted, but most were tucked into the pants to show off the high waists once again. A bright red quarter-zip flaunted a double collar for double the fun, while a gray asymmetrical cardigan created a visual contrast with its almost misplaced looking buttons. 

Loewe’s signature craftsmanship at center stage

When it came to the outerwear, the show was nothing short of iconic, and reminded everyone that beyond all the playfulness, Loewe is all about unparalleled craftsmanship. The house codes were weaved throughout the 51-look collection and manifested themselves with a fresh and meticulously crafted look at well-known patterns. 

Exploration of different forms of fabric took a literal state with the tops created from huge swatches of fabric. Huge pins were inserted diagonally on the garments, adding an element of drama and visual interest. Loewe took to TikTok to show the meticulous craftsmanship that goes behind even this small detail. Loewe’s dedication to exquisite craftsmanship came to life with Anderson’s experimental outlook. 

Accessories also played a vital role in the collection, with big tote bags stealing the show – namely the Pebble Bucket and the Puzzle Fold. Oversized patterns balanced with a variety of fabrics came as a breath of fresh air, and the theme of glitter was also carried onto the bags with a sparkly iteration of the Puzzle Fold Tote.

The SS24 menswear show, as any other throughout Anderson’s tenure at Loewe, showcased his ability to push boundaries while staying true to the brand’s DNA. The incorporation of glitter and the exploration of proportions added up to a visually stunning show, capturing the essence of the contemporary along with the timelessness of luxury. 

Loewe SS24 Menswear Show at Paris Fashion Week

The Loewe SS24 Show was presented on the 24th of June in Paris. With the playful vision of creative director Jonathan Anderson, glitter and extenuated proportions emerged as key themes throughout the collection. The show included fountains made by American visual artist Lynda Benglis and attracted notable celebrities including Loewe’s new ambassador Taeyong.

Selin Hatunoglu