In the same way Giuseppe Garibaldi sparked a revolution for the unification of Italy, Prototipo Studio hemp denim reinterpretation rekindles “Made in Italy” tradition and Italian know-how
Prototipo Studio at Première Vision Denim Milano, 2023
Manual work, careful design, attention to detail, slow production, and the use of natural fibers: this is what the Garibaldi hemp denim production is about.
In the name of Italian manufacturing, Italian artisans and entrepreneurs from Prototipo Studio, Tessitura La Colombina and Gimmi Jeans are bringing back a contemporary interpretation of the first hemp denim worn by Giuseppe Garibaldi during the Expedition of the Thousand, the event that contributed to Italian unification and the creation of the Kingdom of Italy.
The Garibaldi hemp denim at Première Vision – An Italian story of slow design: the handloom
Just as Garibaldi sparked a revolution to unify Italy and create a unified Kingdom, from a production perspective, we need to come together and work towards achieving sustainability as an actual reality rather than it being an overused and empty term.
Weaving is a manual process that involves a loom from the early 19th century. The process involves wooden boards and pegs that determine the sequence of lifting small looms, which allows alteration of the pattern.
A handloom takes two seconds to produce one beat, whereas a mechanical loom can produce 700-800 beats per minute. Handmade fabric has a rough texture that can change and become softer over time, while machine-made fabric initially has a softer texture, but the fibers tend to break down over time.
A handmade hemp-cotton blend fabric by Prototipo Studio
Garibaldi is a fabric made from a blend of hemp and cotton. This combination of materials results in a fabric that is stiffer in the weft due to the hemp, which gives it a fuller and more elastic feel. On the other hand, the cotton in the warp makes it softer and bulkier. This provides the fabric with a nice soft texture, while also making it durable and strong.
The Garibaldi denim and the short supply chain. All phases of production within a 300 kilometers radius
All the steps involved in the production of Garibaldi denim are located within a 300 km radius, which ensures a slow and sustainable process: weaving, finishing and cutting are done between the provinces of Vicenza and Treviso.
The fiber used to make this denim is called Liberian, and it is extracted from the plant stalk. The woody part of the plant is separated from the fibrous part during the retting process, and further separation is done during the scutching stage, followed by carding and spinning. Once the fabric is obtained, finishing, cutting, stitching, ironing, and packing are carried out. Undyed cotton fibers, wooden buttons, and a removable twin button are used. No zippers or other accessories that would affect the sustainability of the garment are used.
Prototipo Studio in collaboration with Tessitura la Colombina and Gimmi Jeans for the production of hemp denim at Première Vision Denim Milan 2023
Prototipo believes in sustainable fashion that involves breaking down complacency, knowing artisans, slowing down production, and combining knowledge. We’ve lost the sense of real value due to an empty production system using plastics and materials that won’t degrade for thousands of years. We can focus on production, impart knowledge, and reflect on the impact of fast fashion and capitalism. This is the goal of the collaboration at Première Vision.