Saut Hermès: the horse goes to the tailor

Hermès’ first client? The horse. The second? The rider. A conversation with Chloé Nobecourt, Director of Hermès Equestrian Métier and the maison’s artisans on craft manufacturing

Saut Hermès. On Horsemanship –  From being a means of traveling and fighting, the horse enters into the daily life of man

In the Hermès universe, the sun is a horse. From the mythological chariots of Apollo to Alexander the Great’s Bucephalus, this animal has enlightened the socio-cultural firmament of mankind, finding praise in artistic and literary productions. The synesthetic cycle of Flemish tapestries from the late Fifteenth century La Dame à la licorne; the steed Bayard in the Carolingian chivalric cycle; Leonardo Da Vinci’s anatomical studies; Lady Godiva’s rebellious galloping ride painted by John Collier; George Stubbs’ Whistlejacket canvas; Barry Flanagan’s equestrian sculptures; the twelve horses exhibited in an art gallery by Jannis Kounellis – the horse over the centuries has been the subject of creative climaxes.

Since 3500 B.C., humans and horses have had a privileged relationship. In ancient Greece, it was Xenophon who first wrote about it with his treatise On Horsemanship. From being a means of traveling and fighting, the horse enters into the daily life of man, who develops notions about its breeding and training for competition and leisure. A discipline is born. Being a rider means representing a corollary of human values associated with respectability, courage, patience and harmony. Riding a horse ensures a change of perspective on the world, through which Apollo of Delphi’s maxim is realized: γνῶθι σαυτόν – know thyself. 

Craft manufacturing, handcrafted creations

Hippocrates already discussed the therapeutic value of riding: the horse offers a mirror of ourselves, heals us and deserves the same consideration. An attention to their well-being that also passes through their dressing code. The act of saddling encapsulates centuries of research and experimentation aimed at making horse and rider as one. 

Since the Nineteenth century, Hermès has been devoted to handcrafted creations in which the wisdom of achieving a balance of forms and materials flows together. As the artisans of the Maison affirm, «With each piece we create, we pursuit perfection, crafting every stitch, cut and detail. We become fixated on minor mistakes that only we notice. A skilled craftsman knows when to stop striving for perfection and accept that sometimes mistakes are a proof of the humanity behind the work, adding authenticity and character». 

Custom-made saddles – Chloé Nobecourt, the Director of Hermès Equestrian Métier

Chloé Nobecourt – Director of Hermès Equestrian Métier – intervenes on equestrian heritage, custom-made saddles, riders and the 14th edition of Saut Hermès.

Chloé Nobecourt: «The horse was Hermès’ first client and the rider is second. The equestrian dimension is rooted in the history of the Maison since its foundation in 1837. The harnesses and saddles at the time were rather weighted and decorated. Hermès was a pioneer in choosing pure designs, which were more in tune with the horse. The aim was to ensure the horses’ free movement and to reveal their beauty. Less is more is a daily philosophy. What can we remove? How can we achieve the essentiality of a creation? These are questions that have always guided us». 

Craft manufacturing and traditions – craftsmen of Hermès

FJC A quote from Winston Churchill may summarize the spirit of an era: «no hour of life is wasted that is spent in the saddle». During the first half of the 19th century, the use and demand for saddles was greater than today. Moving on horseback had not yet been totally overtaken by cars, and horse riding was a hobby to perpetrate social rituals. Traveling by carriage or on one’s steed represented an unknowingly sustainable choice. From its origins, Hermès chose to devote itself to creating riding articles for everyday use. A craft tradition still pursued today on the top floor of number 24 Faubourg Saint-Honoré.

Chloé Nobecourt «When Hermès was founded, horses were omnipresent in Paris for either transport or military purposes. With the advent of the automobile, the use of the horse changed radically. Hermès remained faithful to its origins and was able to adapt to the evolving needs of its clients. We never stopped creating saddles. Today these designs are mainly used for sport and leisure. The first workshop was located at rue Basse-du-Rempart. In 1880, the Hermès family moved to 24 Faubourg, where they lived and worked. Last April, we opened a second workshop in Normandy, in Louviers. A land devoted to horses and their breeding. Today we have twenty artisans in Faubourg and another twenty in Normandy. Here we have a partnership with the Haras du Pin, the oldest French stable founded by Louis XIV, where we select and train our craftsmen».  

«If we look at photos from even just twenty years ago, we can see that the artisans were only men. In the last ten years there has been a change. A wider open-mindedness and a correction in the approach to craftsmanship, which had the misconception that it required a lot of strength, whereas it demands honing a technique and gaining constant experience. There are no barriers for women. Everyone is provided with the best conditions of comfort to do the job. We carry on partnerships like the one with Haras du Pin as well as with Meilleur Ouvrier de France – an award given to the best artisans in France. We have one of the winners among those who manufacture our saddles. For the younger generation, there is an annual training program to enable them to develop the basics to approach this work. When we opened the workshop in Normandy, we invited some experienced artisans who normally work in Faubourg there to ensure a sort of pollination of skills». 

Saddle-making: a collaborative process. The rider, the saddle expert and the artisan

FJC Tailoring a saddle is a collaborative process that originates from a tripartition of voices: those of the rider, the saddle expert and the artisan.

Chloé Nobecourt «The horse cannot speak, but is the first one on whom we all focus our attention. The rider is able to feel the movement of the horse’s shoulders in relation to a certain saddle model. This way, we can understand what improvements can be achieved before taking the measurements. Technology comes to our aid by means of a manual instrument composed of ninety measuring points that help adapt the future structure of the saddle to the horse’s back. It is like making a cast that allows to bring the specificities of a horse into the atelier. The saddle expert is like a translator between what the rider feels from the horse and the artisan who will create the saddle. We also involve vets and osteopaths to guarantee that we can read the horse’s reaction to these new bespoke creations». 

craft manufacturing, craftspeople and Hermès leather

FJC As the craftspeople of Hermès confirm, «The first saddle is the end of an apprenticeship and the beginning of a path for the professional riders». An Hermès saddle is sustainable from the fact that it can be repaired by the same craftsman who created it.

Chloé Nobecourt «Every creation of the Maison is founded on the notion of durability. An Hermès saddle can be repaired. Friction, the horse’s sweat and weather conditions can change it over time. Also, if a horse develops a new musculature, we can adapt the saddle to this new morphology. The repair workshop is in Faubourg. When a saddle returns to our workshop, the artisans are able to read its use through the appearance of the leather that forms it. Over time, our saddles mature a patina that makes them even more treasured. Each one has a number. Sometimes clients bring us saddles that they have inherited. We are able, thanks to a hand-updated register, to trace back to when and by whom that specific saddle was created, as well as the reparations carried out over time».

«The leathers we use come from Europe and are processed by tanneries in France that still practice a traditional form of tanning that uses only oak bark and water. We select two types of leather, one thicker and one softer and more malleable. The naturalness of the leathers is a factor we try to emphasize as it is a material that evolves over time. All the skins we use are traced. We know where they come from and how the animals were bred. The goodness of how they were farmed has an impact on the quality of the leather». 

Hermès partner equestrians: Rodrigo Pessoa, Alexandra Paillot, Simon Delestre, Jessica von Bredow-Werndl, Astier Nicolas

FJC From show jumping to dressage, Rodrigo Pessoa, Alexandra Paillot, Simon Delestre, Jessica von Bredow-Werndl, Astier Nicolas are some of Hermès partner equestrians.

Chloé Nobecourt «These are partnerships, not sponsorships, that have been going on for a long time. To accompany riders in their activities, not only professional but also amateur, it is necessary to relate with them and their horses. Today we have fifteen international riders engaged in various disciplines: show jumping, dressage, eventing and para-dressage. Some of our riders are part of the world’s top five. Like Steve Guerdat, third in the world show jumping ranking and winner of the European Championship last year in Milan. Ben Maher recently joined our team and is the number two in the world. In addition to their performances, we also share common values: from respect for the horse to constant commitment through humble behavior and a cooperative spirit. These are encounters that last and enhance Hermès’ equestrian creations». 

Saut Hermès, Chloé Nobecourt: Hooves of the Heart

FJC The Saut Hermès is a Parisian event that this year has been held on 15, 16 and 17 March at the Grand Palais Éphémère. Obstacle course design, children’s activities and hippotherapy promoted by the Hooves of the Heart association are some of the activities that are organized on these days.

Chloé Nobecourt «It is a family reunion of horse lovers that has been going on since 2010. During the Saut Hermès, a five-star show takes place – the highest level of competition in show jumping with barriers up to 1.60 meters high. In addition to top international riders, we also open the doors to the rising younger generation. This edition of the event has been staged at the Grand Palais Éphémère, in front of the Eiffel Tower. From next year we will return to the Grand Palais on the banks of the Seine where it all began. Here, after the Exposition Universelle, horse fairs and competitions were held from 1901 tal 1957». 

«The Saut Hermès pays homage to the genius loci of this transparent structure. In addition to complex obstacle courses – careful to ensure the health of the horse – every year we design new immersive sets with dancers and musicians. A way to combine different talents and create a show. Outside the Grand Palais Éphémère, children and their families can get close to the horses, brush and ride ponies. During this edition, we supported the Hooves of the Heart association. A duo of human and horse which champions living at the end of life. The rider Hassen offers the cognitive abilities and instincts of his horse – Peyo – to sick and frail people. The charity was registered in 2017, and the duo are now taking part in scientific studies with veterinary surgeons and hospital doctors».

Chloé Nobecour

Chloé Nobecour is the managing Director Equestrian for Hermès Maroquinerie Sellerie

Federico Jonathan Cusin