ISSUE NO. 31
A key aspect is knowing when to stop. There’s a point where something is perfect, but if pushed too far, it becomes over-polished and loses its spontaneity. The natural balance is finding the right moment to stop, preserving some roughness to maintain authenticity and charm.
Growing up in the countryside of northern Italy meant a provincial life with deep family ties and community connections. Varese, nestled in the lake region, was home and the base for Missoni headquarters. This unique setting saw the family house and factory seamlessly intertwined, reflecting an old Italian tradition where life revolved around local industry.
Maccapani’s childhood afternoons were spent at the factory, a vibrant backdrop to family life. Whether the grandmother or the mother was working, the factory was a constant presence. Schooling occurred nearby at an international European school, grounding those early years in local and broader European cultures.
Fashion, surprisingly, wasn’t an early passion for Margherita. At 18, after finishing school, the allure of the city called. The desire to break free from the tight-knit family network and the fashion world it entailed was strong. Moving to a big town promised individuality and self-discovery, far from the familiar confines of the countryside.
Initially, philosophy studies in Milan marked her journey of self-exploration. A transfer to Columbia University followed, though the academic path soon led to a more expressive pursuit: acting. For a few years, acting in theater provided an outlet for introspection and a way to delve into personal history. This period in her twenties was a time of intense self-reflection and artistic exploration.
There came a time when self-awareness grew, and the desire to engage with life outside the backstage of a theater emerged. Embracing this new path, a return to Europe marked the beginning of a journey in fashion. Assisting her mother initially, Margherita gradually took on responsibilities within Missoni, focusing on licensing and accessories and delving into beachwear and collaborations with Target.
«Then I had a few years of acting when I naturally became the face of the brand and a spokesperson. This role included fragrances and RTW». Though Margherita was involved with the company, the creative side was not the primary focus during this period.
Marriage and the arrival of children brought a shift. After the second child’s birth, departure from the company led to independent ventures. Launching a children’s collection and engaging in various collaborations across brands and categories followed. While financially rewarding, these projects needed more depth to build something enduring.
In 2018, Missoni sold shares to a fund, which requested Margherita’s return and take over the second line. M Missoni, previously a licensed, cheaper copy of Missoni, needed transformation into something unique. Despite initial reluctance, an idea took shape—turning the second line into a collection using Missoni’s leftovers: excess yarns, unused fabrics, forgotten prints, and overlooked concepts.
The project saw success, offering a fresh perspective. However, a new CEO, differing in ethics and aesthetics, decided to shut down the line despite its performance. After this, a new venture began for Margherita, launching a personal collection under her original last name, Maccapani, from her dad, marking a return to her roots and a new chapter in her fashion journey.
«I really did not want to start my own line. I thought there was so much on the market, and what’s the point just because I have a particular style or good taste? But then this team of people that used to work at M Missoni with me kept pushing and pushing. And I thought about it until I found something that made sense».
The idea was inspired by a particular jersey lurex fabric that was consistently a bestseller at M Missoni. Twenty-five thousand meters was used four times a year. The product team developed this jersey fabric, which is rich in appearance and affordable. Its unique qualities allowed it to maintain its shape like woven fabric while offering the comfort of knitwear. The decision was made to shift from knitwear to these versatile jerseys. The market immediately responded positively, recognizing the gap this approach filled. «It was as if you were wearing sweatpants but actually wearing a suit in a funky print». After M Missoni stopped its operations, nobody continued using that fabric.
There was a hole in the market for that. Maccapani focused on creating outfits with the comfort of athleisure but with a feminine, elegant touch, distinct from the masculine and sporty look of traditional streetwear. The ultimate goal is to attract women who wear Zimmermann – not to mimic Zimmermann but to offer an alternative style. «Women in their forties, like my peers, who understand bohemian style and wear Zimmermann but aren’t truly bohemian—they’ve just adopted that way of dressing. I want them to see they can learn another way of dressing that’s close to the body, sexy, feminine, and highly functional».
Reflecting on fashion history, I realized that brands have always aimed to simplify and enhance women’s lives. From Coco Chanel’s innovations to Margherita’s grandparents’ contributions, the goal was always comfort and elegance. In contrast to modern borrowing trends from men’s streetwear, this collection offered a contemporary alternative centered around modern women’s needs.
«My grandparents sent women to the theater wearing knitwear, which before was just for staying home when you were sick. They made women’s lives more comfortable and elegant».
Maccapani is produced in Italy now, although Margherita is considering expanding to Portugal or Turkey if they offer better quality and pricing. The emphasis remains on quality rather than location.
The process begins traditionally with a highly creative phase involving mood boards, color stories, and prints. Initial collections start broadly but must be narrowed down to establish a clear identity. «You must understand who you are, especially as a small establishing brand. It’s important to repeat yourself to help people understand what you are. For example, people are still buying first-season items from our website at full price because they haven’t seen them before. The process is very rational at the moment. I think a lot about how to develop and what to add on without changing drastically each season. The creative part is the most fun, but I hold back because it’s important to wait to push it again».
Prints. Margherita works with an in-house graphic designer to develop prints every season. The prints challenge women’s stereotypes by infusing them with new meaning. One recurring theme is the flower print, a staple in women’s wardrobes. Each season features a flower print, always with a unique twist to ensure it remains edgy rather than overly sweet.
«My name, Margherita, means daisy, so there’s always a recurrence of this flower in our designs. The daisy is usually seen as a happy flower, like the smile of flowers, always forced to be cheerful. But we create a daisy that looks a bit tired, one that has lived and experienced life. It doesn’t mean it’s sad; it doesn’t have to smile constantly. The designer I work with understands this, and I love creating prints with her».
The design process involves selecting elements for a print, creating an all-over pattern, and isolating some elements for individual use. For instance, last summer’s print with butterflies and flowers was transformed into a silver butterfly motif. The flower element was also used separately on a T-shirt.
Despite initially focusing on being a feminine brand with dresses, the best-selling item is the motocross T-shirt. This oversized, long-sleeve shirt, typically designed to accommodate protective gear, features the brand logo on the lower back, blending style with functionality.
Margherita Maccapani Missoni is a strong advocate for e-commerce when it comes to sales.
Initially, the plan was to start as a direct-to-consumer brand online, with only a few retailers. However, they quickly realized the importance of face-to-face interactions with customers. There is value in direct interactions, not necessarily through wholesale or owning a store, but through temporary sales events. These events, lasting from a couple of hours to a whole day, allowed Maccapani to meet clients in groups of 10 to 50 people.
«Our clothes, especially jerseys, look much better on the body than in a photo or hanging. We also noticed that people come back and buy on our e-commerce site afterward because we have a lot of carryovers and easy prices».
Americans are accustomed to comfort dressing. Unlike British people who prefer a more formal style and different outfits for various occasions, Americans appreciate versatile outfits that can transition from yoga class to the office to a night out. «This means less explanation is needed; they just need to know that our clothes can replace their yoga outfits for the entire day».
«New York is very much part of my aesthetic. I lived there for five years in my twenties, and many influences come from that time. Life experiences shape you the most, and that’s unavoidable. That’s why it’s important to choose carefully who you hang out with, what you see, and where you live».
Environmental standards are crucial, and the lack of regulations makes it challenging and unfair. Strict personal rules have always been a priority for Maccapani, especially with the launch of a new brand. Creating a brand without following certain principles feels out of touch with the times, yet the industry seems to care less.
From the beginning, Maccapani made everything to give a second use. Tags, for instance, were designed as stickers that customers can use after removing them. Different items come with various stickers, adding a unique touch to each purchase. The materials chosen for bags and packaging are carefully selected to ensure they are the best possible options for sustainability.
Buyers often ask about sustainability, but there needs to be more accountability. Sustainable yarn, for example, is significantly more expensive than its unsustainable counterpart simply because fewer people use it. This lack of incentive makes it harder to justify the higher costs, even though sustainability is appreciated. The disparity in pricing impacts competitiveness, making it difficult for sustainable practices to pay off.
However, more regulations are needed to increase the availability of sustainable materials and make it easier for everyone to adopt these practices. The market needs incentives and uniform standards to drive widespread change with regulations.
«Why do we do fashion shows? Who are they for? We need to rethink how we present—whether for fashion insiders or the final clients. I’m not a fan of the current structure of fashion shows. It’s still crucial for some brands because it gives another edge and level to the collection. But at the same time, I don’t think it’s for everything, and probably not for a project like this. I think there are better ways to communicate the storytelling I want to share and to stand out from the masses». Instead of a traditional catwalk, a performance at Milan Fashion Week in September will focus on a different form of expression and engagement.
Celebrity dressing is another channel brand is currently exploring. Leandra Medine Cohen recently wore Maccapani. Along with potential muses, Margherita listed Zendaya and Rosalia. The motocross T-shirt was inspired by Rosalia’s Motomami album.
ISSUE NO. 31
Lampoon is a cultural magazine.
Culture today means sustainability – in its honest meaning.
Culture has always been about human respect, tolerance. It’s not only about accepting human diversity but it’s about searching for the beauty of every human peculiarity.
Inclusion is the first value that defines art. Culture today means one thing only: to be part of a community, to think as a community.
Reading Lampoon, you see that these themes are smoothly aligned. A good part of the articles’ content discusses practices to restore our environment and stories about understanding the others.
Reading Lampoon, you find a dialogue between science and creativity. From sharp and edgy photo sessions to fashion, architecture, technology – the commitment is dedicated to a future that is all about us – together.
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