Hemp Kamiko: Issey Miyake and the Japanese Craftsmanship

Under the creative direction of Satoshi Kondo, Issey Miyake pays tribute to the kamiko fabric tradition, made from fine hemp fibers and Japanese paper

“The Beauty of Paper” – Issey Miyake and the Kamiko paper fabric made from hemp

Paper cannot be considered a natural element. Some have collected its fibers, others have ground the pulp, while others have shaped or flattened it into various forms. What is it about paper that makes us feel comfortable? Starting from this question, Issey Miyake’s SS2025 collection embarks on an exploration of the history, processing, and craftsmanship of paper.

Issey Miyake’s work began in the 1970s when Japanese textile factories were in decline, and the only response to the crisis was to research and develop the production of unique, natural raw materials. To illustrate the history of paper production, this collection features a series of kamiko garments made from washi—Japanese paper—entirely created from fine hemp fibers, a celebration of craftsmanship and manufacturing that highlights the roughness of the texture.

Within the collection, two series incorporate this raw material: Ease and Eased is a series that reinterprets kamiko designs, spinning hemp yarn for the warp, while using a mixed yarn of mohair and wool for the weft with a subtle color variation to emphasize the depth of the texture, lightweight and airy but laid flat like paper. The second series, Hempen, is made from 100% dyed hemp, coated to enhance its functionality while retaining its roughness, lightness, and comfort.

Kamiko fabric – the result of the creative mind of Satoshi Kondo for Issey Miyake

In 2019, three years before Issey Miyake’s passing, Satoshi Kondo began his journey as the creative director of the brand with the mission of translating the avant-garde messages of the fashion house and adapt them to the contemporary world.

The garments in the Spring/Summer 2025 collection, presented at Parc Floral in Paris, include a series consisting of two outfits crafted using the “seamless weaving technology,” which features drapery falling at the front, formed solely by the materiality of high-twist cotton yarn. The designer, known for creating scenic effects, crafted an installation of Japanese paper membranes made from natural raw fibers, moving in perfect harmony and fluidity in response to small movements and environmental changes.

For this interactive installation, Kondo enlisted the expertise of Yoshihisa Tanaka, a master of paper. Tanaka created hundreds of meters of pleated paper membranes, using both regular and asymmetric folds, in collaboration with a Japanese company with more than 1300 years of experience. The paper, once folded, can be easily transported and compacted to be fixed at a single point. For Kondo, this creative installation accompanying the runway show represents a response to climate change, where human actions convey a sense of ambiguity, just as human intervention alters the natural balance.

The use of paper as a raw material for textile manufacturing in Japan

In Japan, creating garments from paper is a historical practice that has existed for over ten centuries. There are three types of fabrics made from paper sheets: Shifu, where the paper is cut, twisted, and then woven; a fabric that had brief success in the West in the 1960s, linked to hyper-consumerism and disposable culture, while in Japan, it was connected to local subsistence, community, need, and landscape preservation; and finally, Kamiko—derived from “kami” meaning “paper” and “ko,” an abbreviation of “koromo,” meaning clothing. To make Kamiko, the paper is cut, twisted, and then knotted into a net or lattice, or if the paper is not cut and turned into yarn, it is pulped, softened, and treated with natural gels to make it durable.

The raw material used to produce the paper is called Kozo. In Japan, there are two types of trees called Kozo: the Paper Mulberry and the Kajinoki. Both are known for their long, soft fibers, which give the paper strength and durability. Since 1973, Shiroishi washi paper has been used for the garments worn by monks during the Shuni-e (Omizutori) celebrations, marking the final day of fourteen days of prayer at Todaiji Temple.

Paper raincoats were popular in pre-modern Japan for their convenience. They were made from thick paper sheets derived from the inner bark of the mulberry tree, treated with persimmon juice and a mixture of perilla and tung seed oils (also known as wood from China). This treatment made the paper resistant and durable while maintaining its rough character. The sheets were carefully glued together, then dyed. After rubbing the surface to add shine and softness, the manufacturer would cut and sew the fabric to create the garment.

The performance change of kamiko combined with konjac and used tea leaves

In a study conducted in 2009 by bioengineers from Shimane and Kyushu Universities in Japan, the multiple qualities of paper as a raw material and its reaction to combining with other elements were explored.

Various fibers were mixed with used tea leaves to attempt the preparation of new materials, creating new types of kamiko. The first application involved konjac paste—a plant native to the subtropical regions of Asia—which was applied to the surface of hemp and tea-leaf-based paper. This resulted in an increase in properties such as tensile strength, burst strength, and stiffness. Additionally, it was observed that the application of konjac paste increased the paper’s permeability and extended the time it took for the paper to absorb water droplets.

During the manufacturing process, when the paper was being sewn by machine, the application of konjac paste improved the seam strength by approximately 20 N. In this context, the increase of 20 N indicates the strength index of the paper, meaning it can withstand greater force during sewing before breaking or giving way. The paper with konjac paste was also tested for deodorizing effects using ammonia. The results showed that the paper, which contained about 10% used tea leaves, displayed an effective deodorizing effect.

The use of hemp fibers improved the mechanical properties of the paper, while the application of konjac paste enhanced the material’s strength during the sewing process.

Authentic kamiko is produced in only one place in the world: Shiroishi, Miyagi Prefecture, Japan

Paper manufacturing has been the crown jewel of Shiroishi since the Edo period until its slow decline during the Meiji period. When the Tohoku region was too cold to grow cotton, and its high cost made it prohibitive to process and wear, paper garments were preferred for protection against low temperatures and as padding under the traditional kimono. In summer, paper garments quickly absorbed sweat and dried rapidly, allowing for better breathability of the skin.

The production of mulberry, paper fabrication, and processing were thriving industries that remained active; out of about 300 workshops, today, none remain. Currently, paper is produced by a group of around ten local people who wish to preserve the tradition of making kamiko and processing washi paper.

Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake was a Japanese designer. His brand, now under the creative direction of Satoshi Kondo, is known for its use of cutting-edge ideas and technologies, as well as natural raw materials. In the Spring/Summer 2025 collection, he reinterpreted kamiko, a fabric symbol of Japanese craftsmanship, made from paper from hemp fibers.

Martina Tondo