Photographer Kévin Félicianne’s lens on urban Dakar: documenting the city’s transformation through teenagers’ eyes, as Senegalese wrestling grows from rural tradition to stadium spectacle
Dakar’s Enduring Spirit: Wrestling, Culture, and Creativity in Senegal’s Capital
Dakar, the capital of Senegal, stands at a crossroads where history, tradition, and modernity converge to forge a unique cultural identity. Nestled on the Cap-Vert Peninsula, this coastal city of more than three million inhabitants has long been a diplomatic and economic hub in West Africa. From its alignment with Western powers such as France and the United States, to its strategic partnership with China and the Gulf states, Dakar remains an influential player on the international stage.
Yet, beneath this global veneer lies a society deeply attached to its homegrown traditions—chief among them is the Senegalese national sport of wrestling (known locally as làmb in Wolof or njom in Serer). Wrestling is a cultural spectacle interwoven with folklore, religious influence, and expressions of national pride. Equally vibrant is Dakar’s creative scene, which in recent years has gained international recognition for its dynamic blend of historic motifs and modern innovation.
A Historical Overview: Diplomacy and Regional Ties
Once part of French West Africa, Senegal gained independence in 1960. For a brief period, it united with neighboring Gambia in the Senegambia Confederation, which dissolved in 1967. Relations between the two states have been rocky at times, reflecting border and political tensions. Similarly, disputes with Mauritania and involvement in the separatist conflict in the Casamance region (which also affects relations with Guinea-Bissau) have shaped Senegal’s cautious approach to regional diplomacy.
Historically, Senegal has aligned itself with France and the United States, a stance that brought considerable economic and military support. In the modern era, however, Dakar has moved toward new partnerships, most notably with China (diplomatic ties established in 2005) and with Gulf countries. Chinese-funded infrastructure projects, along with investments from the Gulf states, have injected fresh capital into Dakar’s economy, fueling major urban development. Despite these transformations, some pillars of Senegalese identity—such as wrestling—remain steadfast.




The National Sport: Wrestling as Cultural Beacon
In Senegal, wrestling (làmb in Wolof, njom in Serer) is more than just a contact sport: it is a living embodiment of culture and communal identity. While it is intensely popular throughout the country, its historical roots are most prominent in regions like Sine-Saloum (among Wolof and Serer communities) and Casamance (among the Diola). Once practiced as a form of entertainment and a test of fortitude after the harvest season, wrestling has evolved into a professional sport replete with its own federations, celebrity fighters, and lucrative sponsorships.
From Local Tournaments to National Events
Traditionally, wrestling competitions took place in local villages, often at the end of the rainy season. Young men from neighboring communities would test their strength in tournaments called mbaapat, with prizes that ranged from livestock to staple grains. These small-scale bouts were the breeding grounds for legendary figures who would go on to dominate the national arena. Over the decades, as wrestling gained popularity, financial rewards for top competitors began skyrocketing into tens of millions of CFA francs, drawing vast audiences and media attention.
Renowned names etched in Senegalese wrestling history include Falaye Baldé, Double Less, Mbaye Gueye (nicknamed “Tigre de Fass”), Moustapha Guèye, and Manga 2—once hailed as “King of the Arena.” However, one of the most transformative figures in modern wrestling was Mouhamed Ndao, popularly known as Tyson. By the late 1990s and early 2000s, Tyson’s showmanship and success catapulted wrestling into a new era of professionalism. Sponsorship deals, televised fights, and clamoring fans made matches a spectacle rivaling even soccer in popularity. Today, major wrestling events in Dakar’s stadiums draw tens of thousands of enthusiastic fans, as well as members of the Senegalese diaspora around the world who watch the bouts via satellite or online streaming.
Rituals and Folklore in Dakar
What makes Senegalese wrestling unique are the elaborate rituals that frame each match. On fight day, the wrestlers—known as mbër in Wolof—enter the arena surrounded by the hypnotic beats of traditional drums, accompanied by griots and griottes (West African troubadours and praise-singers). Wrestlers will perform the bàkk, a moment of self-assertion during which they chant their personal accolades, dance, and engage in symbolic acts intended to intimidate their opponents. The practice of wearing amulets (gris-gris), invoking blessings from marabouts (spiritual guides), and undertaking ritual baths for purification underscores the sport’s deep spiritual undertones.
Although the modern form of Senegalese wrestling now incorporates striking (sometimes referred to as “wrestling with blows”), it remains governed by strict rules enforced by three match officials. A match typically lasts two rounds of ten minutes, with possible overtime if neither opponent falls. Victory comes as soon as a wrestler’s head, buttocks, or back touches the sand, or if an opponent’s physical state is deemed insufficient to continue.
Today, Senegalese wrestling—often dubbed the “national sport”—serves as a unifying cultural force. At a time when the country juggles social, economic, and political challenges, wrestling offers a shared sense of identity. It gathers people of various ethnic backgrounds, religions, and social classes under one roof (or stadium), forging a collective pride in the sport’s homegrown values. The communal atmosphere resonates far beyond the ring, reaffirming a crucial part of Senegal’s intangible heritage.

Dakar’s Creative Scene: Tradition and Transformation
Even as wrestling draws attention for its spectacle and cultural weight, Dakar’s arts community is blossoming in ways that reflect both local traditions and international trends. Historically, Senegal’s conversion to Islam and its complex colonial legacy under French rule led to the attenuation—and in some cases, disappearance—of certain indigenous art forms. Yet in recent years, Dakar has experienced a renaissance in visual arts, music, literature, and fashion.
Arts and Crafts in Dakar
Senegal’s artisanal sector benefits from a rich tapestry of cultural motifs inherited from various ethnic groups, including the Wolof, Serer, Diola, and others. Although mass religious conversion once discouraged certain sculptural or mask-making practices, travelers to Dakar today encounter a lively market of wooden carvings, ornate jewelry, and mixed-media works. Some of these pieces draw inspiration from neighboring countries, reflecting centuries of cross-border exchange. Local artisans in bustling markets like Marché Sandaga and Soumbédioune adapt motifs from diverse sources, fusing them into distinctive Senegalese designs.
Dak’Art and Emerging Artists
A key driver of contemporary art is the Dakar Biennale, commonly called Dak’Art, which has, for decades, provided a platform for African and diaspora artists to showcase their work. At Dak’Art, one can witness cutting-edge installations, experimental photography, and forward-thinking design. This event has helped place Dakar on the global cultural map, attracting curators, collectors, and critics from around the world.
Several local and international art hubs have also sprouted, including the Village des Arts—a creative compound where emerging and established artists can work in studios and interact with the public. Major cultural figures, such as the internationally recognized painter and sculptor Ousmane Sow, have paved the way for younger talents. Meanwhile, global icons like Kehinde Wiley have established creative residencies in Dakar, further energizing the city’s art landscape.
Music, Film, and Fashion in Dakar
The capital is also a vibrant center for music and dance. The rhythms of Mbalax, popularized by stars like Youssou N’Dour, still dominate airwaves, nightclubs, and dance floors. Meanwhile, Dakar’s hip-hop scene thrives on its own brand of socially conscious rap, with groups like Daara J Family blending local languages and styles. In film, directors such as Djibril Diop Mambéty and Mati Diop have garnered international accolades, showcasing Senegal’s narratives on the big screen.
Fashion, too, has found a growing platform. Senegalese designers are experimenting with traditional textiles like wax prints, bazin, and bogolan cloth, infusing them with modern cuts and silhouettes. Annual events such as Dakar Fashion Week celebrate this synergy of heritage and innovation, making the city a rising destination for fashion connoisseurs.

Kévin Félicianne
This story showcases the journey of young teenagers from Dakar as they hang out, explore, and wander through the city, (re)discovering the beauty of Dakar’s stunning landscapes and its people. Senegalese wrestling, the national sport of the country, is well known everywhere. A boy walks down the beach of South Dakar, enjoying himself by watching men wrestle. Assane stands by his motorcycle, observing the people walking down the streets. Kathia gazes at the sunset as the day comes to an end, and the sun sets, making way for a new day. All these little things in everyday life make Dakar a pleasant and peaceful city to live in.
Kévin Félicianne is a photographer from Guadeloupe. He is based in Paris. His work explores identity and heritage, focusing on the relationship between tradition and modernity. He documents life in Guadeloupe and Paris, representing different environments and individual experiences. His photography involves composition and capturing moments with authenticity. He documents the streets of Paris and the landscapes of Guadeloupe, conveying place and belonging. His attention to detail and storytelling create photographs that reach an audience, bridging cultural gaps.
Throughout his career, Kevin Felicianne has exhibited his work in galleries and participated in photography projects locally and internationally. He has been recognized in contemporary photography for merging vision with cultural commentary. He mentors aspiring photographers and engages in community initiatives that promote the arts. Felicianne believes in photography’s power to inspire change and encourage dialogue, making his work accessible and impactful to people from various backgrounds. Kevin Felicianne continues to develop his craft, exploring new techniques and perspectives. He navigates the streets of Paris and maintains connections to Guadeloupe, capturing moments that reflect shared humanity.


