Jewelry, cashmere and accessories, Helen Yarmak looks to the sea: «I was a piano player. Many composers found inspiration in the sea – Debussy, Ravel and Liszt»
Elena Davydovna Yarmak is the founder of Helen Yarmak. Based in New York City, Moscow and Milan, the fashion house specializes in the design and production of jewelry, cashmere and home accessories. The designer holds a PhD in Doctor of Sciences. «One of the ways we continue to make our pieces is by designing them to be changeable. That patented process is tied to my scientific training. Technical knowledge provides a counterpoint to the artistry of our designs and our materials». Her designs result in her creations being referred to as wearable pieces of art within the industry. «With the pandemic, every detail has magnified a creative force within me. In my clothing, accessories and jewelry designs, I pay homage to things I see in nature: colors, forms, shapes, objects, and animals».
The process of designing her jewelry commences as ideas take shape in Yarmak’s mind. «I choose a gem, according to what it transmits to me and create the piece around the stone, taking into consideration what that stone, or material evokes in me. I work with my artisans conveying my thoughts to them». The zipped diamond necklace contains 613 diamonds, 0.27 carat each. «The zipper zips. The dancers twirl as you move with the light playing off the jewels in a way that suggests movement. Static pieces are dull. I am inspired by living things that grow and breathe and dance and move. It would be a betrayal to those sources of inventiveness to create jewelry that didn’t mirror that activity», says Yarmak. The spirit and concept behind the jewelry match that of the clothing. The stones placed in Helen Yarmak jewelry hold a sense of power one can sense while wearing them. A piece that pays tribute to this is the non-wilting flowers of 18k Gold definition, 49 Paraiba and 1130 diamonds round. For every 10,000 diamonds taken from the earth, one Paraiba is mined. «The stones glow reminds me of the title of Nabokov’s novel, Pale Fire, but its scarcity makes it a symbol for our ethos». They use diamonds and rubies in a Paraiba setting. The Paraiba stone has become the crown jewel that adds a flair to the collection. Conveyed as life in the colors of the sea wave, such pieces are drawn by nature. «I was a piano player when I was younger, and I was struck by how many composers found inspiration in the sea – Debussy, Ravel and Liszt. The sea can represent homecoming and longing. It can represent danger and discovery. When it appears calm, there is depth and a power hidden beneath its surface». The diamond turtle ring complete with baguette diamonds is an example of how versatile their jewelry can be. They can be worn by men and women. According to Helen Yarmak, «statement, fascination, curiosity and playfulness are sentiments that transcend gender».
Helen Yarmak’s 2021 women’s collection. The spacer down parka is visioned to exude energy. «We have the ability to change or reverse pieces. There are no rules and no references in the making of our garments. Each collector can wear it as they please». Cashmere is a staple material found within Helen Yarmak collections. Its focus is the pleasure brought by the material to the person wearing it. «The cashmere scarf and blazer are meant to reflect a modern-day concept of living 360°». These traces take form through the cut of the design, the quality of the materials, attention to detail, tonalities in color and the desire to be enveloped. Her capsule camouflage collection is another that is available for men and women. Helen Yarmak insists the collection is a creation for those that travel, experience and explore the world. «I appreciate practical objects and designed these pieces bearing that in mind. Military regalia, medals, awards and decorations are of poignance. The release is Italian made and as in all of my collections, attention to detail is paramount».
New York. One of the showrooms being based in the city, the designer determines it to have added layers and twists to Helen Yarmak designs. «Our showrooms represent the DNA of our brand according to their location. Our brand speaks to the individuals of New York, Moscow and Milano as opposed to its markets». Yarmak describes the Coronavirus pandemic as a time for reflection and introspection. «We have had to examine aspects of our personal lives and how we showcase our collection. For safety’s sake, we cannot rely on putting on a show to present our pieces, but we have tried to find the silver lining in that by re-examining the ways that we discuss and show our works to collectors and the public». The brand has been forced to search for alternative means of demonstration. «That has required an examination of who we are, of what our pieces are and how we can communicate what makes us, in a world where we can’t have customers try on a coat or a necklace. Finding ways to describe and share those reactions has been a grounding experience, and one that has made us focus on aspects of our creations we would not have otherwise done».IMAGE GALLERY
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