The cypress-lined drive leads up to the top of the hill, to Tenuta La Badiola, a neoclassic villa that, in the nineteenth century, was the home of the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Leopold II of Habsburg-Lorraine
In the land of the Butteri, the Maremma cowboys, just a few kilometers from Castiglione della Pescaia, two rows of cypress and maritime pine trees stretch as far as the eye can see behind a gate, forming a natural corridor, called an andana. This drive leads up to the top of the hill, to the Tenuta La Badiola, a neoclassic villa that, in the nineteenth century, was the home of the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Leopold II of Habsburg-Lorraine. A huge, dust-colored country mansion that controls and protects the surrounding vineyards on these hills in Tuscan Maremma.
Five hundred hectares of land, crossed by the spring of Acquagiusta—the name on the estate’s wine labels would have them stemming from a natural spring. The villa and the farm joined by a winter garden, with their Tudor windows the only geometric element in sight, fields of vines and olive trees and the sky.
One fireplace in the lobby and one in the restaurant. There is a fireplace opposite the swimming pool. Every room has its own fireplace—there are twenty in total and each one is different. The rooms and bathrooms are unusually disproportionate, with the latter much bigger and featuring mosaics inspired by Roman spas and tubs sculpted out of stone. The fragrance is Aqua Universalis by Maison Francis Kurkdjian.
They have chosen colors from nature, with peach on the walls, pickled white wood, crimsons, greys, powders and beiges, a touch of tangerine orange to bring good luck. The drawing of a huge pinecone is everywhere. Tuscan pietra cotta stone and antiqued oak parquet. Inspired by the landscape and paying homage to Tuscany, the furnishings were designed by Carmen together with the architect Ettore Mochetti, the editor-in-chief of AD Italia.
The old barn houses the Michelin-starred Trattoria Toscana run by Chef Enrico Bartolini. “Initially and for ten years, Alain Ducasse was in charge. Then we thought of Enrico and his Tuscan heritage. He says little and does a lot, like all ambitious people,” says Martino di Rosa, gastronomic consultant for atCarmen and husband of Carmen Moretti, the lady of the house. With Martino it is a question of strategies, “you need executive consistency, it is the only way to beat the market. Then come social and economic context, the period of time, a good year and the sunshine,” and future projects. For L’Andana this will include all-year-round opening and growth of a territory that is a virtuous example and a constant in the entrepreneurial philosophy of the Moretti family (L’Andana is to Maremma what L’Albereta is to Franciacorta). L’A, with the L standing for La, the feminine article in Italian before proper names that denotes familiarity, confidence and almost affectionate attention.
Mass is celebrated every Sunday in the private church here. It also has a practice golf course and tennis. L’Andana today is an experience resort belonging to the Moretti family.
Throughout the season, cookery fans can take part in courses and try out as an apprentice with the starred chef Marco Ortolani, the sommelier Davide Maccaluso in the estate’s wine cellars, L’Acquagiusta and Petra. There is horse-riding: Maremma seen from the saddle of a Tuscan thoroughbred, through woods, over plains and on beaches. Or a ride in a Ferrari, allowing guests to drive a racing car along panoramic roads, accompanied by professional drivers. The upcoming summer of 2019—check the dates first—there will be bike rides with Mario Cipollini, former world champion and sprinter with a feel for speed. With Giovanna Trillini, the queen of fencing, there will be lessons for adults and children alike. And also with Alice Bellagamba, Art Director at the Balletto delle Marche Academy and long-time instructor of hip hop, a school of corporeal expression and discipline.
Località Badiola, Castiglione della Pescaia, Grosseto