Hemp at Première Vision. The historic fiber back in the spotlight

As hemp gains popularity for its low environmental impact and technical qualities, Première Vision is promoting hemp-derived fibers for textiles, highlighting the advantages and supporting the supply chains

Hemp at Première Vision – A historic fiber back in the spotlight: Fabio Adami

Fabio Adami Dalla Val, the Show Manager at Denim Première Vision, explains Lampoon Magazine: «At Première Vision, we are committed to promoting low-environmental-impact fibers and responsible supply chains. Hemp fully aligns with this vision: we promote products and producers that stand out for their traceability, processes with reduced chemical and water impact, and the use of robust and insulating natural fibers. Advances in spinning and “cottonization” now make hemp more homogeneous and compatible with existing machinery, favoring the development of quality blends such as hemp/cotton or hemp/cellulosic fibers».

Première Vision and the stakeholders participating in their events are partaking in the broader revival of the European hemp supply chain. In fact, on the continent, the hemp supply chain is expanding. There, the cultivated areas have been growing over the past decade, increasing from 20,540 hectares in 2015 to 33,020 hectares in 2022. Nowadays, farmers cultivate hemp in more than 12 European countries. France remains the leading producer in Europe, accounting for more than 60% of the European Union’s hemp production. 

«Interest in hemp is growing rapidly. Buyers are seeking fibers with a reduced water and chemical footprint, as well as an authentic, clean, and textured aesthetic. Thanks to recent advances in cottonization and spinning, hemp is easily integrated into mainstream items such as jersey, casual shirts, and denim. Buyers are primarily focused on three aspects: easy traceability, consistency in terms of feel and yarn count, and compatibility with the current industrial processes».

For buyers, hemp offers economic, industrial, aesthetic, practical, and environmental advantages. Hemp is a low-input crop that consumes little water, does not require pesticides, and improves soil quality through crop rotation. In addition, each part of the plant can be utilized in a variety of applications and sectors. In textiles, hemp offers a natural look, and with its insulating properties, it makes for a suitable choice for a four-season wardrobe. Hemp’s visual and tactile irregularities lend authenticity to hemp-based textiles, while the possibility of mixing it with viscose, Tencel, or wool makes it a versatile fiber. Compatibility with existing spinning processes, made possible by the invention and implementation of cottonization processes, facilitates production and wider industrial adoption, without the need for significant investments by textile manufacturers.

Fostering change and innovation – The hemp stakeholders at Première Vision

At Première Vision, hemp-based products are present in diverse sectors of the trade show, both among specialists and manufacturers who incorporate the fiber into their collections.

Among the key players are the Alliance du Lin et du Chanvre Européens, an association that brings together over thirty European linen and hemp companies, and Safilin, a historical producer of European linen and hemp yarns, with local spinning mills in France and Poland, as well as certified European Flax® and Masters of Linen® traceability, offering a range of yarns from Nm 2 to 50 for weaving and knitting.

Exhibitors in the Fabrics sector come from a vast range of countries. Among them are Linopersempre, the Dutch company Northern Linen, Kingdom Textile, the largest GOTS linen & hemp fabric producer from China, Libeco, Polopiqué, TMG Textiles, the Portuguese company NGS Malhas, Bugis, RDD, Positive Materials, and Hemp Fortex Industries. Some of these companies present innovative applications, such as wadding or synthetic furs made from hemp viscose, while others bring their decades of expertise in hemp processing.

The future of hemp – the importance of innovation 

According to Fabio Adami Dalla Val, the future of hemp lies in technical improvements and the enhancement of its natural potential. «Innovations in spinning and weaving improve hemp’s feel, appearance, and versatility, facilitating its integration into contemporary collections, including sportswear. It is a fiber that combines perfectly with cellulosic or recycled materials to obtain soft, comfortable, and recyclable fabrics at the end of their life cycle. Thanks to its insulating properties, hemp is also finding new applications in sectors such as automotive and construction, confirming its key role in the transition towards a more circular and sustainable textile economy».

What is Première Vision? – Textile and fashion trade fair  

Première Vision is a trade fair founded in 1973 in Lyon, France, by a group of around 15 textile manufacturers, serving as a meeting place for textile and garment professionals. Today, this company is an ecosystem fostering dialogue among all stakeholders in the textile and fashion supply chain, from raw material producers to brands, from designers to innovation experts. «Première Vision is also an observatory on the social, aesthetic, and technological transformations that are redefining the very concept of fashion. Its mission is to inspire and support the sector towards a more responsible, conscious, and innovative future». 

Première Vision is part of the Fashion Division of the France-based international GL events group, a company specializing in the organization of professional and cultural events, with a network that encompasses trade fairs, congresses, and other events. «Within GL events, Première Vision continues to develop its identity with autonomy and consistency, but benefits from a broader ecosystem that fosters connections, investments, and a long-term vision, strengthening its role as a cultural and strategic driving force for the entire fashion industry». 

According to Adami Della Val, the company focuses on anticipating the challenges that textile and fashion industry stakeholders will face, promoting a more responsible and transparent approach. «Première Vision has also brought into the spotlight topics that are now central to the conversations we are having in the industry, such as sustainability, supply chain traceability, material recycling, and the use of new technologies. The company anticipated trends and, above all, knew how to evolve the sector, inviting companies to think of themselves not only as producers, but as cultural agents of change, and it created connections and synergies with the most important institutions globally». 

Denim Première Vision: fostering connections in the global denim community – Paris, Milan, London, Berlin

At their core, all these denim events share a singular purpose: fostering connections.

The roving events in various cities like Paris, Milan, London, and recently Berlin, have one primary focus that is bringing people together. This could involve reuniting with familiar faces or forming new connections, all while discovering increasingly innovative and sustainable denim products.

Since its inception in 2007, with each passing season, Denim Première Vision, the event has consistently reinvented itself to cater to the ever-changing needs of a demanding industry, addressing the desires of brands and consumers who continually seek exclusivity and innovation. 

The Denim Première Vision events bring together a diverse community, encompassing industrial manufacturers, artisans, and experts. They come from various parts of the world, including Europe, Turkey, and Asia, offering complementary skills to provide you with the most comprehensive and high-quality options available. This offer includes different categories of activities: weavers, accessory and component manufacturers, garment producers, and fabric finishers. Attendees range from fashion brands, major denim players, pure players, premium brands, leading designers, luxury houses, major retailers, and denim enthusiasts.

Environmentally friendly practices and eco-responsibility are the core themes of the fashion fair

Eco-responsibility is a central theme at Denim Premiere Vision, influencing their product offerings, conference programs, and roundtable discussions.

The event promotes ethical, sustainable, and environmentally friendly practices within the textile industry. The Sustainability section of PV Magazine delves into the industry’s key challenges and emphasizes the growing importance of values centered on creativity, innovation, sustainability, and traceability through a wealth of complementary articles and content.

On the other hand, the Smart Keys articles provide guidance on embracing ethical and sustainable fashion, the Smart Creation podcast initiates conversations around fresh ideas, and the Smart Talks facilitate engaging discussions among industry experts on critical eco-responsibility topics.

Fabio Adami Dalla Val

Fabio Adami Dalla Val is the Show Manager at Denim Premiere Vision. He studied Managerial and lndustrial Engineering at the University of Padua. 

Roberta Fabbrocino