Dr Vranjes Firenze, Rosa Tabacco: natural is not synonymous with safety

«I created the first perfume for myself, the second for my loved ones and the third for the public», in conversation with Dr. Paolo Vranjes

Dr. Paolo Vranjes’ approach to making fragrances

Dr. Paolo Vranjes has been a seminal figure in the milieu of Florentine perfumery for the past four decades. He established his namesake brand, Dr Vranjes Firenze, in a natural development from a childhood fascination with fragrance. «I created the first perfume for myself, the second for my loved ones and the third for the public. Since then, forty years have passed, and I am still not bored». What has not changed in him is the clarity of the creative idea that takes hold of his mind every time he decides to create a perfume.

What has changed is the complexity of the perfume he creates, the quantity of essences he works with, over 2200, and the ability to know where to go and how far he can push himself. «It is like knowing a language – as soon as you know the alphabet you can write your own book».

Rosa Tabacco: distinctive from Dr. Vranjes earlier perfumes

«Rosa Tabacco is a blend of opposite and contrasting elements: Damask rose and tobacco. Instead of repelling each other, they attract and are bound together by a series of notes». Its underlying concept is that of an intense romance, and a story of love bringing two people from different locations and cultures together.

In turn, it was key for the fragrance to capture the «personality of two lovers; a strong soul linking the two». Rosa Tabacco differs from others because it was conceived and developed with formulations to meet the production standards of all their collections – both home and personal.

The company’s fortieth anniversary is approaching, and the world is constantly changing. Dr. Vranjes felt the need to create a provocative combination for the world we live in. «I wanted to challenge myself and show that it is possible to tie together even two elements that are different and opposite to each other».

The fragrance notes for Rosa Tabacco

«I went further, leaving room for experience and imagination», Dr. Vranjes states. According to him, the first reminds you of the roads not to take. The second pushes you towards horizons, roads yet to be discovered. He chose to add vanilla, musk and amber accords to the rose and tobacco.

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Sustainable methods of scent extraction

They are a creative team. The team rely on external partners to gather the necessary essences and raw materials to make products to high standards. They select and confirm them based on their mission. Dr. Vranjes ensures that the ingredients minimise their environmental impact and have a positive influence on the socio-economic environmental development of the countries where they cultivate and produce the essences.

«The word natural is not synonymous with safety. Neither for us nor for the environment, plants, and animals», according to Dr. Vranjes. There are regulations to protect animal and plant species from extinction that do not allow the use of essences that occur in nature and are therefore reproduced synthetically in the laboratory of Dr. Vranjes.

An example of extracting the essence of flowers while fully respecting them is Headspace. Among the natural ingredients Dr. Vranjes prefers alcohol of vegetable origin, such as wheat. In terms of essences he prefers to play with Italian, local ones – thus lemon, orange, mandarin and bergamot. Among the synthetic ones, on the other hand, he thinks there are some good amber derivatives in my ‘olfattorio’.

Ethical methods of ‘produced in the laboratory’

«We have invested in aspects necessary to ensure consumer safety and compliance with all regulations, both Italian and international», he states. Therefore, for them, ‘natural’ is not synonymous with safety. All the raw materials they purchase, and consequently what they create, is subjected to examinations on their safety profile. At their premises in Antella, they are equipped with machinery dedicated to this type of control.

The essences and consideration for creating a Dr. Vranjes Perfume

It is reductive to think that a perfume consists of the olfactory pyramid alone. The essences and ingredients are the heart and mind of the fragrance. «When I combine ingredients with each other, I am already thinking in terms of the olfactory and the aromatherapeutic effect I wish to achieve».

In contrary to home perfumery industry, where they have decided to give themselves rules and commit to adapt and follow them worldwide, in the cosmetics field the law is clear and detailed. This allows them to be guided and adapt their creativity to precise paths. Thus, the new personal collection aims to bring fragrant well-being to people’s skin. None of the products are tested on animals.

Sustainability in the approach to packaging

The Antella headquarters is fifty percent self-powered from an energy point of view by solar panels and they are constantly trying to reduce CO2 emissions. For example they do this by switching to natural rattan sticks instead of bleached ones. They make glass objects that last over time and offer the refill format in recyclable plastic.