For Autumn 2022, Gregoris Pyrpylis introduced five new additions to the emblematic range in order to surround the central pivot of Rouge H based on «intuition and the need to add colors»
The Beauty Métier to the house of Hermès
Hermès Beauty was the most recent expansion of Hermès’ métiers launched in March 2020 with the Rouge Hermès lipsticks collection. Early 2022 Gregoris Pyrpylis was appointed as Creative Director for Hermès Beauty to continue contributing to the development of this métier. The appointment of Pyrpylis was a choice in line with the central philosophy of Hermès «to not seek to transform, but to elevate natural beauty».
Growing up in Greece, Pyrpylis was inspired from a young age by ancient mythology and, particularly in the books that contained illustrations of these myths. «I even noted the way monsters were illustrated. This was the moment when I was first attracted to beauty».
Studies in literature combined with 16 years of experience in the industry meant that when he joined Hermès he was swiftly able to pick out the elements that defined Hermès and to express this in beauty. When he joined the company, he «did not have to look far for inspiration: the house is so rich in colors, textures and expressing beauty in different ways and mediums».
One of the earliest products Hermès introduced for Hermès Beauty was the Rouge H lipstick, in 2020. Rouge H was one of the first colors launched in the Rouge Hermès collection, which gathered lipsticks that first came in 24 shades.
Originating in 1925, this color defined the house’s identity. A colored shadow, neither blue nor yellow, with a hint of brown, almost burgundy. In matte it is deep, while the satin version is intense and luminous.
This hue was first created in the 1920s and has become one of the most beloved colors in all the métiers of Hermès and is used across all of the métiers. In the lipstick, it is available in two finishes: matte and satin.
How colors behave differently on every surface, texture and material
These are respectively inspired by the Doblis leather and the Box leather used by the company, and reflect the way this color «behaves in a different way on every surface, texture and material». Similarly, the Blushers take inspiration from «the interaction between silk and its transparency and luminosity» as reflected in the scarves that Hermès is renowned for.
The interconnecting thread across these métiers is that of a respect for the materials and the craftsmen that define Hermès’s heritage. «Sustainability is not a trend for us; it is something deeply linked to our DNA». This derives from the tradition of crafting high quality objects produced with the best materials and this extends across all of the 16 métiers of Hermès, including that of Beauty.
Rouge Hermès and its Autumn Additions to the Lipstick Range
For Autumn 2022, Pyrpylis introduced five new additions to the emblematic range in order to surround the central pivot of Rouge H. This was based on «intuition and the need to add colors that are loved». Inspiration was found from «the season and the transition where the light changes and the shifts in nature» with particular attention paid to how light hits naturally on aspects such as trees, flowers and the landscape.
The resulting five lipsticks therefore reflect an engagement with both the season and Hermès’ history. For instance, Rouge Érable has a slight brown element that is derived from Maples Trees; Rouge Vigne has a blue-ish tinge that reflects vines leaves at harvest; while Pourpre Figue is suggestive of over ripe figs that are ready to be consumed.
This sensorial element is complemented by the essence of the lipsticks themselves. In 2020, when Hermès developed its first lipsticks for Hermès Beauty the house decided to collaborate closely with the house’s perfumer, Christine Nagel.
With Hermès Beauty teams, she developed a way to infuse a fragrance with notes to arnica, angelica and sandalwood in the lipsticks. This approach is a way to work across the métiers of the house to reflect its essence. What is key is the «multi-sensorial approach for every woman» in a way that does not clash with the colors, but rather complements them.
Autumn-Winter 2022 Limited Edition – exploring the earth and the interaction between the earth and the air.
Pyrpylis explains that the Limited editions are released every six months «as an expression where the Hermès object can be seen almost as a seasonal accessory». For Autumn-Winter 2022 he created three new shades: Rouge Grenat, Rouge Feu and Rouge Cinabre. He recognizes that «they are all striking colors, but at the same time are wearable and so you can work the colors in your own ways».
At the heart of these shades was the earth and its vicissitudes, but most of all the interactions that happen in a spontaneous way and which humans cannot control. He reflected on the way that pigments change with the light and «the chemical interactions and alchemy that happens in nature and in the earth’.
The result is three fiery red shades that are defined by their incandescence. The fiery lava that bursts forth from the earth is encapsulated in Rouge Feu, while Rouge Cinabre is of a vermillion hue that reflects the mineral from which it derives its name and Rouge Grenat is laced with metallic sparkles that brings light through the matte texture.
About the design of the lipsticks – molten metal inspired
This inspiration from molten metal carries through into the design of the lipsticks themselves. The casements were designed by Pierre Hardy, creative director of Hermès Beauty objects, and have a distinctly Art Deco element that is a nod to the heritage of the house. Continuing this attention to detail are the leather sleeves that envelope the lipsticks. These were created to complement the Autumn-Winter 2022 collection shades.
They are crafted from leather derived from other creations by Hermès; offcuts that would otherwise have gone to waste. This philosophy continues from the Petit H that was established by Hermès in order to make use of offcuts in innovative and playful ways. «It is about using elements and materials that have not been used in order to make creations sometimes with a more practical meaning».
The value of pragmatic elements
The interior of the sleeves uses a leather that slides more smoothly in order to facilitate its use compared to the textured exterior. This collection is also the first time where Hermès Beauty chose to use two different colors for a single sleeve for added visual interest. Ultimately, it is a means to continue the connection across the métiers of Hermès and the attention to detail.
Their construction «uses saddle stitching to show the experience of our artisans and their craftsmanship». The heritage of Hermès is implicit to every aspect of its output, and what is fundamental is «the expertise of Hermès is in colors and allowing people to work out how to use them in their own way ».
Hermès
Hermès was established in 1837 by Thierry Hermès as a harness workshop in the center of Paris. Over the subsequent 185 years, it has expanded its productivity to encompass a range of métiers including accessories, jewelry and perfume.
