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Lampoon Issue 30
Why we keep falling for Elmgreen & Dragset
As their work enters Casa Italia at Triennale Milano, we return to our interview on space, storytelling, and the art of dressing the white cube
Fashion
Is it a Fashion shows or just some showbiz power? From an ancient salon to Willy Chavarria
With over 300 brands across New York, London, Milan and Paris—and $1.2B in MIV generated by Paris alone—runways now compete for cultural impact, celebrity reach and digital dominance
Humanities
Hot & Sporty, the uniform makers: Ralph Lauren and the Olympic Journey
After ten Olympic Games, Ralph Lauren combines design and Made-in-USA production to release a relaxed Team USA wardrobe that recalls countless sporty hotties
Ralph Lauren Milano Cortina 2026 Celebrating team US - 1
Magazine
Humanities
We Are All Intellectuals Now: The Condom as Artistic Fetish
From Olympic distribution and public health campaigns to museum collections and fashion collaborations, condoms are the epitome of a recurring provocation
Fashion
It’s just a t-shirt: from Westwood to rebellion, politics, sex, irony
The T-shirt has never been innocent. Westwood made it a weapon, later designers polished it into branding, and today it balances history, humor and activism
Humanities
Do you still want gossip? We talk about stainless steel cigarette holders
A wall fitted with steel holders marks out a small sanctuary for gossip: Chisme Corner by Ananas Ananas shows how durable materials can contain forms of speech
Crafting
Daniel Kolodziejczak: I design the way an engineer might
Nothing hidden, no decoration that conceals the system - Daniel Kolodziejczak: a designer translating structure into marble, wood, geometry 
Humanities
Arrested for a photoshoot – Russia’s cage system
The State does not stop at punishment – it enters the body, lets it bleed, suffocate and deteriorate without care or urgency. Detention, feminist art and the cage of Putin’s Russia
Crafting
The hottest title in Japan? Living National Treasure
First established in 1950, the title of Ningen Kokuhō – “Living National Treasure” – is given to artists who keep Japan’s traditional arts alive: it’s not the object that is protected, but the people 
Sex
Sweat and rivalry: what happen when male bodies get too close
Locker rooms, showers and other discreet architectures have shaped male desire through rivalry, discipline and enforced proximity, from American art and cinema to photography and fashion
Sex
Reframing desire through vintage erotic magazines: Jürgen Maelfeyt
An exploration of how 70s and 80s vintage erotic magazines shaped the visual language of intimacy, fragmentation, and sensual ambiguity in Maelfeyt’s trilogy
Fashion
Matthieu Blazy and Couture as an exercise of power
Between strategic caution and craftsmanship as content, Matthieu Blazy’s first Haute Couture uses Couture as an instrument of control, rather than a space for creative assertion
Fashion
Jonathan Anderson, Dior, and the British Cultural Scratch
Dissidence, irony, and controlled provocation. This is the British contribution to a house that more than any other embodies wealth, heritage, and symbolic power
Textile Fibers
SA SU PHI: Italian knitwear built on proportion and purity
Brainchild of Sara Ferrero and of art director Susanna Cucco, an introduction to SA SU PHI: three-dimensional volumes, a balance of full and void
design
Feminine literacy, when the feminine is methodology
Feminine literacy looks at design from a different angle. It listens to voices and places that are ignored and asks how we can create things that care for people, nature and future. An interview with Doyenne studio’s founders
Cinema
Pillion: BDSM & Kinky Sex – why do you want to dominate me?
Harry Lighton’s Pillion frames kink as emotional architecture, using BDSM rituals, negotiated power exchange, and consent culture to interrogate contemporary relationship models
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Ralph Lauren Milano Cortina 2026 Celebrating team US - 1
Italia
Filiera Italiana
Perché anche ai cavalli piace la canapa? Il caso di Agricola Genesi nel Modenese
Coltivazione indoor di canapa nel Modenese: genetiche selezionate, idroponica in fibra di cocco e post-raccolta manuale. Dalla parte fibrosa nasce Winning Hemp Support, un integratore per cavalli
Mondo Digitale
Tinder sta perdendo utenti e ricavi – abbiamo voglia di salvarla? 
Le app di compagnia basate sull’intelligenza artificiale crescono - Match Group, il più grande gruppo globale di dating online, proprietario anche di Hinge, tenta di riorientare il modello
Arte
Bernini e i Barberini: il potere papale inventa il Barocco e riscrive il volto di Roma
A Palazzo Barberini la mostra ricostruisce il sistema Urbano VIII attraverso Bernini: ritratti, propaganda e architettura in un laboratorio politico che trasforma la scultura in strategia e Roma in teatro del potere
Tracciabilità
Cosa sono le microplastiche e perché i tessuti ne rilasciano molte
Miliardi di microfibre provenienti dai vestiti finiscono nei mari e nel corpo umano. Nuove ricerche, normative europee e filtri obbligatori in Francia dal 2025 provano a contenere il fenomeno
Filiera Italiana
La canapa in Sardegna tra potenziale in agricoltura e ostacoli legislativi
La canapa sarda è una coltura agricola con un potenziale, bloccata da regole che non seguono i campi. Tra Barbagia, Nurra e Campidano cresce una coltivazione che potrebbe fornire più materie prime locali
Design e Architettura
Milano: milioni di metri quadri sono tetti vuoti che vogliono diventare verdi
Dai tetti verdi condivisi di via Russoli alla Barona alle coperture del San Raffaele: le Nature-based Solutions funzionano quando diventano infrastruttura sociale, non solo estetica urbana
Filiera Italiana
Hemp Care porta la canapa nella cosmesi attraverso una filiera corta integrata 
A Grassobbio, in provincia di Bergamo, prodotti per viso, capelli e barba a partire da olio di canapa e ingredienti derivanti da agricoltura biologica – parla Ottaviano Allegrini
Cinema
Cime Tempestose riletto tra brughiera e fango: il sesso dove la società non arriva
Quando il desiderio non ha diritto di cittadinanza, inventa geografie parallele – “Cime Tempestose” di Fennell e la genealogia del sesso clandestino nella natura, tra melodramma erotico e immaginario del cruising
Moda
Chi è davvero Brunello Cucinelli? La storia dell’uomo e la sua dignità
Dopo il documentario e la visibilità contestata, un excursus sulle origini umbre e contadine, il sogno di Solomeo, la dignità dell’uomo e la quotazione in Borsa: come nascono le polemiche?
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Ralph Lauren Milano Cortina 2026 Celebrating team US - 1
READER
The Publishing Industry
Uroš Kramberger: at Grünwaschen, sustainability is not a marketing slogan
Greenwashing has become a buzzword – founded by Uroš Kramberger, Grünwaschen in Berlin supports independent designers with ethical fashion and fair labor standards 
Reportage
Lampoon and LabSolue at W Florence for the Greenest Fragrance: Canapa N381
Canapa N381 is unveiled during Pitti Uomo at W Florence as a limited edition Eau de Parfum by Lampoon and LabSolue, bringing hemp back into focus within contemporary perfume research
Hotels
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Perfume List
Solsequium, the sun’s own flower: Ffern Summer 25
A fragrance house rewriting the codes of perfumery, where scarcity is the new abundance and a summer sunset an eternal dream
When the Gong Rings: Floraïku Turns Afternoon Tea into Perfume
Floraïku’s latest eau de parfum traces the arc of a gong strike, echoing the mindful swell and release of afternoon tea rituals—each moment sweetened by the allure of traditional dorayaki
How Maison Margiela’s Replica Line Bottled Winter’s Essence
From Chamonix’s Snow-Covered Chalets to the Lab: By the Fireplace, part of the Replica collection, draws on the nostalgia of 1970s Chamonix, blending raw materials and alpine culture into a fragrance
Diptyque Re-lights the Neon of the Orphéon
More than half a century later, Diptyque has returned to that ember-lit cradle of its creativity, transforming memories of sax riffs and swirling cigarette ribbons into a limited-edition collection that puts the club’s name, Orphéon, in lights once again
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Hemp
Naturally Sourced
Hempcrete: the building material that sequesters CO₂
How hemp could become a game changer in the construction industry: a smaller footprint than traditional concrete and the ability to sequester CO₂ for up to one hundred years
Naturally Sourced
Do you need to apply for a license to grow hemp in New York?
A multidisciplinary team at Cornell collaborates to enhance hemp cultivation and resource sharing within the industry, backed by state funding and focused on research and education
Textile Fibers
Manila Hemp is better known as Abaca Fiber: what is it?
The Sustainable Alternative to Glass Fiber: Manila Hemp (aka Abaca Fiber) - tensile strength, seawater resistance it’s willing to surpass hundreds of millions by 2030
Textile Fibers
Hemp activewear and denim: higher yield and less water consumption
Robert Jungmann shares insights gained over 30 years, noting advancements that allow for innovative blends of hemp in textiles. Improvements that paved the way for hemp activewear options
Naturally Sourced
Hemp biocomposites: food packaging solutions using hemp biomass
An international team of scientists studies the valorization of hemp biocomposites, revealing its potential in developing sustainable food packaging solutions
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