Schiaparelli is not the first one using images connected to the animal world, but what has changed today? beyond the Schiaparelli case to understand this phenomenon
Clothes and their relationship with nature
Thinking about the past, it is evident how fashion has neglected its actual contact with nature. Although different collections with more or less exotic features recalled animal or flora’s forms. Indeed, the fashion field has never taken into account or respected this sphere. Just think of the constant struggles of animal rights activists against animal fur, which was abolished permanently from collections by some major luxury brands only last year.
And then again to the use of animal skin to be used in a wide variety of forms, from footwear to leather goods and bags. Often also with clear reference to the animal used, which, as a specific species, indicated the level of luxury of the product itself. Returning to the generic relationship between fashion and nature, the former, in addition to neglecting the health of the latter in its expansion, also used controversial language in the imagination.
Schiaparelli’s Inferno after the Haute Couture presentation
Triggering this controversy in recent days was the Schiaparelli brand’s Haute Couture SS2023, which brought a representation of three animals to the runway. In particular, the beasts depicted as an integral part of the clothes: a lion, a she-wolf and a loin, referred like the entire collection to Dante’s Inferno. Public feedback, however, was negative with respect to this depiction.
Judged inappropriate although they were not real animal heads. It is clear then to understand the communicative power of fashion and not to underestimate the shared meanings it can convey. In 2023, then, is it still cool to use animals in fashion imagery? And why didn’t the brand reflect on the controversial final rendition before delving into this obscure thicket?
Haute Couture and ready-to-wear. The animal imagery in fashion
For sure, Schiaparelli is not the only brand to have used these images, in particular if we consider the patterns inspired by animals and often made of their own skin. We need only go back a few years to find a very similar image used for the Chanel Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2010/2011 fashion show. Here the inspiration was founder Coco Chanel’s zodiac sign, the lion, substituted for the head of the man who personified it on the runway.
A number of other examples of different performances were in Animalia Fashion, an exhibition held in 2019 at the Museum of Fashion and Costume in the Pitti Palace. Here the relationship between fashion and the animal world is investigated in different forms. There is the Haute Couture dress presented in 2018 by Dolce and Gabbana that is covered in feathers appearing to be parrots, here it is unknown whether they were real or fake.
Then again, Salvatore Ferragamo’s python coat and the use of corals. Examples of animal representations between the more distant and more recent past exist and are most remembered when worn by stars. In 2001 for the Oscars ceremony Björk wore a swan-shaped dress designed by designer Marjan Pejoski. Lady Gaga, on the other hand, had worn a version of a formerly slaughtered animal for the MTV Video Music Awards ceremony in 2010, again garnering several critics.
As with dresses, the narrative through images also passes through photographs, to be remembered there is for sure the emblematic photo taken by Avedon for Dior with a model posing in the midst of two elephants, tied with chains to pose.
The physical representation of an animal subjugated by man
These representations and images are the result of what culturally animals represented, and sometimes still represent, within society. In recent years, leaving aside the extremist currents of thought and action, the global population has become more aware of issues pertaining to nature and animals. A response also due to the environmental catastrophes experienced, caused by human behavior.
For this reason, unlike a few years ago, Schiaparelli’s depiction has caused public opinion to debate the use of this symbolism as inappropriate. The physical and truthful representation of an animal in the service of man and subjugated by man. This was the message that many read before discovering of the parallelism and metaphor of Dante’s Inferno.
What allows for reflection is how in the context of a conscious audience the brand did not think about this additional plane of meaning. Far stronger than the one envisioned and capable of imposing itself on the former. Indeed, if in the past just narrow groups of protesters opposed similar representations, today the majority criticizes this type of decision-making.
Martina Pluda, Director for Italy of Humane Society International/Europe
Among the criticisms of this use of the animal figure is that it glorifies hunters. In this regard, Martina Pluda, Director for Italy of Humane Society International/Europe, which is responsible for limiting these actions in favor of animal protection, comments. In her opinion, on the one hand the homage to Dante’s work is appreciable, also confirming the Maison’s mastery of craftsmanship.
On the other hand, however, «one cannot help but emphasize how the three look. Featuring Dante’s three beasts-the lion, the lion, and the she-wolf-normalize and glorify the conception and aesthetics of animals as accessories and trophies». Pluda continues: although the invoice was fictional and the reference metaphorical, the risk is to promote behaviors that encourage people to buy actual accessories made from animals such that they demonstrate a status symbol. Therefore, it is relevant to be cautious about the message one wants to communicate especially looking at fashion as a cultural vehicle.
Trophy: a contemporary issue
As unthinkable as it may seem that trophy hunting and related references to it are far removed from everyday life, even today this practice is widespread. «Trophy hunting is a serious animal welfare and conservation issue that threatens the survival of many wildlife species worldwide, including those represented in the collection», Pluda explains.
Among the world’s largest importers of trophies are the United States and the European Union. And among them, many of the trophies are obtained from the killing of protected and endangered animal species, HSI points out. This practice, too, according to the Director, is linked to the capital sins shown by Schiaparelli, with the sole purpose of providing pleasure to those who exhibit the parts of these animals.
#NotInMyWorld
Humane Society International promoted a specific campaign to ban the import and export of the trophy. #NotInMyWorld action is concentrated in Italy building on the report The Numbers of Trophy Hunting: The European Union’s Role in Global Trophy Hunting. The EU-based study aims to clarify what the numbers are and the impact with respect to the global trophy industry. In addition to affecting animals and the survival of individual species, this practice also affects biodiversity.
The years analyzed range from 2014 to 2018 and show an average of 2,982 trophies per year imported into the EU. The study is based on an analysis of data collected by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES). According to this, seventy-three protected species of mammals were imported into the EU in the years examined. Regarding the lion in particular, attention has increased in recent years because of the killing of the lion Cecil by an American hunter in Zimbabwe in 2015, HSI explains.
To create an effective market for hunting, captive breeding farms have been established in several countries that allow lion hunting for a few thousand euros, the report states. In the UE both import and export of protected species, also defended by national laws, are relevant.
The change of perspective images should stick to
It is clear from the above examples how much the plans of meaning have changed over the years. As is only to be expected. However, if fashion is to mirror the society and culture of the people, can it overlook certain elements? Certainly, the fashion system is also known to be disruptive and anticipatory of certain trends. But the opposition of public opinion at different historical moments shows how much the communicative capacity of clothes themselves is underestimated.
Not only in the actual physical representation of the animal worn, but at this point one should also think about the inspired prints. These while not harming any being if fake however should be rethought from the perspective of a world in which animal mistreatment is unconscionable.
«Roseberry speaks of the collection as a ‘tribute to doubt. The doubt of creation and the doubt of intention’. Without a shadow of a doubt, the intent of trophy hunters is to keep their elitist ‘hobby’ alive at the expense of biodiversity», Pluda concludes. Then the system must focus in addition to symbolism on the images and behaviors to promote to its audience.
Humane Society International
Founded in 1991 with the intent to protect all animal species from all kinds of threats. Active in over fifty countries, it works against mistreatment by dealing with a variety of fields of animal exploitation. From testing in laboratories to farms to victims of natural disasters.
