How has the island of Ortigia in Sicily changed thanks to a redevelopment plan and the birth of both cultural projects, headed by the Ortigia Sound System? A reportage
Malamore and the Ortigia Sound System
A few steps from the remains of the Greek temple of Apollonius, in the historic center of Ortigia – the island which rises in front of the city of Syracuse, Italy – there is a small record shop which for some years now has been serving as a cultural meeting place for the local population and a must-see for music-loving tourists who visit the island. A small room whose walls are covered with hundreds of records and which sometimes comes alive with DJ sets and cultural events.
At Malamore you can find mainly second-hand records unearthed by the owners in flea markets. The musical genres range from techno to Eurodance and reggae and much more. While the selection of contemporary records and artists follows the trend traced by the founders with their personal projects, such as SUGO NERO and Nu Genea.
The Malamore family – SUGO NERO, Nu Genea and more
Malamore is the brainchild of four record addicted boys, as Federico Zanghì says: «The team is made up of four co-founders and a store manager, all passionate about music. Mirko Fanciullo and I have a musical side project called SUGO NERO, then there is Lucio Aquilina from Nu Genea and Giulio Messina, owner of a bar in Ortigia. Francesco Sorrentino, our store manager, is a historic DJ from Syracuse who has played all over the world in the most famous clubs, a central figure in the 90s and 00s scene. He brought all his knowledge and experience to Malamore».
«If I had to identify the point of connection between us it would be Enzo Carella, who combines everything we like. We do a lot of research and we listen to some really weird stuff, we take stock on local radio stations where we find some goodies which we introduce to the public. Carella is an artist we have played for a long time, but nobody really considered him, they rediscovered him only after his death», adds Zanghì.
Ortigia Sound System – to Sicily from the world
In recent years Ortigia has gained notoriety also thanks to Ortigia Sound System (OSS), an electronic music festival which mixes the rhythms of the Mediterranean tradition with contemporary international influences. Every year, on the occasion of the festival, the island comes alive with artistic performances, DJ sets and events scattered throughout the city and – after a two-year stop – also the sea, with a busy boat party program.
Anticipated by collateral events in Milan, Palermo and Catania, the upcoming edition to be held between 26 and 30 July, demonstrates once again its willingness to position itself on the international music scene as a research-based festival with a vocation for experimentation. Under the theme The Tropicalization of the Mediterranean, OSS has established a highly respected international line-up with Acid Arab, Marina Herlop, HHY & The Kampala Unit and many more.
Ortigia Sound System and the requalification of the island
After years of neglect, Ortigia has finally returned to shine with its own light. The architectural beauties have been restored, while the naturalistic ones have become the protagonists of ad hoc laws aimed at preserving them. At the same time, new meeting places scattered throughout the city streets have reactivated the cultural and creative ferment of the island.
«I have traveled a lot, I have been to Paris, London, Brussels, but to me Ortigia means home. When I left at the age of eighteen everything here was black, Piazza Duomo was a parking lot and the redevelopment project had not yet started. We did not know what we had in our hands, the boom of the 80s had pushed the inhabitants to move off the island. Then mayor Fatuzzo won a European tender and suddenly the town became a UNESCO heritage site. The restorations finally brought to light the white stone of the buildings which blinded everything and everyone».
OSS and the cultural ferment of Ortigia
«OSS has played a part in the rebirth process, accelerating dynamics that were already underway. The festival was born in a fertile moment for the area, but it gave a boost by bringing the reality of Ortigia to the attention of a certain audience. Now there is a loyal audience of people who come from all over Italy and the world especially for the festival», claims Zanghì.
«Ortigia attracted the investments of people who got to know it through the festival. Malamore was also a consequence of this astral alignment. Now the risk is that the island will be distorted due to its touristic success and the economic dynamics which inevitably derive from it», he adds. In light of this, the Malamore team selected five significant places on the island where it is still possible to breathe its authentic atmospheres today, beyond the classic tourist itineraries. The itinerary was then completed by the shots of the Syracuse-based photographer Giuseppe Romano.
Forte Vigliena – the meeting point for the children of Ortigia
Licio Acquilina, 1/2 of Nu Genea, moved to Ortigia after the release of their first album and fell in love with it. The place of his heart is Forte Vigliena, from the Middle Ages, on the coast above Punta Malevie or Majaria. Known by the Syracusans as “u centralinu”, it was destroyed by the first bombings of 1943, as the site of the radio station on the Berlin-Syracuse-Tripoli route.
Forte Vigliena is the meeting point for Ortigian kids during the hot summer days. It is one of the most authentic places on the island, but you can also find Italian and international tourists who want to be carried away by the Ortigian atmosphere. The white tuff houses are reflected in the crystalline water, offering a corner of paradise which seems to have not been touched by the frenzy and disturbances of modern life. «At Forte Vigliena you can feel the magic of Ortigia straight on your skin. If you do not feel it there, you cannot feel it anywhere else».
Ortigia Sound System: la Graziella – The fishermen’s quarter
Francesnco Sorrentino’s choice fell on La Graziella, one of the last neighborhoods inhabited only by Ortigia’s people, whose families have lived there for generations. Entering the maze of narrow streets, it is possible to discover the old Ortigia, which once belonged to ordinary people: fishermen, traders and small artisans, homes of humble and hardworking people.
Here the limestone tuff and mortar houses are the undisputed protagonists. Beautiful in its simplicity, La Graziella still preserves the scents of the fig and mulberry trees which sprout here and there among the white buildings. Strolling around this small neighborhood one has the feeling of having been catapulted into another era made up of small daily moments and simple activities, such as playing ball in a courtyard or meeting up with the neighbors to chat and enjoy a little cool in the evening breeze.
Ortigia Sound System: B.O.A.T.S. – The art of mixology in Ortigia
B.O.A.T.S. – Based On A True Story – is one of the historic places of Ortigia: a mix of colors, flavors and aromas. The refined cocktails and dishes inspired by tradition, but reinvented with style, contribute to delighting the senses. And of course, vinyl records of different genres and eras picked by customers play non-stop on the old turntable.
«B.O.A.T.S. is the bar of a friend of mine, the first to bring the culture of mixology to the city. It overlooks the temple of Apollo where Mirko and I started playing, where Malamore was also born. When Lucio arrived in the city we spent whole afternoons listening to music at the tables of B.O.A.T.S», says Zanghì.
Ortigia Sound System: Chiodo – a touch of internationality in the historic center of Ortigia
Chiodo is a restaurant, showroom and concept store with refined items located in a characteristic courtyard in the historic center of Ortigia. Wooden tables, exposed beams and refined but welcoming furnishings. The traditional Sicilian dishes are accompanied by artfully prepared cocktails while in the background professional musicians – many of them Sicilians – entertain the customers.
«It is a place to which we are all very emotionally attached, but also an unmissable stop for those who want to spend a day in Ortigia. It knows how to be international, while remaining 100% Sicilian. It is a small jewel of our city, ” says Zanghì.
Ortigia Sound System: Forte San Giovannello – “U Talìu”
«We also have a romantic soul and with Mirko, my partner from SUGO NERO, we chose U Talìu because it makes us think of the 50s, when this fort was the spot where women awaited the return of their husbands. These places also recount an Ortigia which no longer exists, but perfectly describe the society of the time: women scanning the horizon while waiting for their husbands’ boats, after days, weeks or even months without seeing each other».
But there is also the other side of the coin, which often goes unnoticed, as Zanghì explains: «Nowadays, looking out from u Talìu, you can still see the blue sea and the small port of Ortigia, but also a large concrete parking lot called the Talete, the famous tyrant of Syracuse. This place also tells the story of the changes and the risks which mass tourism can bring. With this short itinerary we wanted to reveal the places capable of telling the ever-changing story of a city and its community, without clichés or fetishizations».
Malamore
Malamore is a record and beer shop located in Via Resalibera 2, in Ortigia. Founded by Lucio Acquilina, Mirko Fanciullo, Federico Zanghì and Giulio Messina, it is a meeting point for the local community and a regular stop for music lovers visiting the island. At Malamore you can find second-hand and new records ranging from electronics and techno, reggae and jazz.
Giuseppe Romano for Lampoon Digital
The photo editorial is an exclusive reportage by photographer Giuseppe Romano for Lampoon Digital Edition.
