A glass wall separates the dining room from the kitchen – through a curtain of rough fabric, one watches the brigade at work. In conversation with Chef Andrea Berton, from his culinary presidium in Porta Nuova, Milan
A conversation with Chef Andrea Berton – his culinary philosophy and the direction of Italian cuisine
«People have never eaten as well in Italy as in the last 4-5 years». Michelin-starred chef Andrea Berton begins to talk about his culinary philosophy and the direction in which Italian cuisine is heading from his Milanese culinary presidium. The geometry of the glass hints at the rigorous, minimalist design of the interior. In the evening, with soft lighting, time is suspended in the air of modernity. We could be in Manhattan, but we are in the futuristic Porta Nuova district.
«Italian cuisine has improved in quality, and the perception abroad has changed: it is no longer perceived with the cliché of mom’s cooking. The traditional aspect no longer represents us very much». According to Andrea Berton, quality and tradition actualized represent the Italian cuisine of modernity. «The modernity of Italian cuisine lies in this. It has lightened itself from the heavier elements of tradition. The quality of raw materials remains. In this evolution, Milan has played a decisive role, becoming a hub of international cuisine in recent years, especially in the last decade».
Milan has become an international reference for cuisine
Milan brings together more than 5 percent of all food services in Italy and one-seventh of all wine bars. Major food delivery services have also chosen to establish their headquarters here. Top chefs stop by here, including events and collaborations. Moreover, it was home to Expo2015, the world event dedicated to food. After 2015, there has been a proliferation of events, starred restaurants, bistros, foodies trends, and food markets. «I remember 15 or 20 years ago when we used to go abroad to discover new trends. Today it’s also others who come to Milan».
Raw materials in Chef Andrea Berton’s kitchen
Raw materials are the focus. «Our work must lead us to select quality raw materials even without having to tell anyone. The added value is the selection of suppliers, with whom we establish a relationship of trust. This is the game season, so we have a supplier who gets us roe deer hunted in the territory of the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines. This is one of the most interesting territories for this type of animal, which lives in large numbers and feeds in a healthy way. Selection is also rigorous for vegetable suppliers». The truffle, which is the star of one of Chef Andrea Berton’s menus, is an Italian pride. «I think of Alba, Tuscany, Umbria. Truffles are ours alone, in high demand abroad».
The broth according to Andrea Berton: it’s the protagonist, condensing the quintessence of flavors
Andrea Berton, among other merits, has that of giving the scepter to the broth, which becomes the fil rouge that binds all the dishes. The liquid part lends the umami of the dish. Umami is a term of Japanese origin, which since the 1990s has been commonly used in the lexicon proper of nutrition physiology to define the particular taste sensation induced by monosodium glutamate. It is referred to as one of the basic tastes perceived by the specialized receptor cells present in the human oral cavity, alongside the traditional four basic tastes, namely sweet, salty, bitter, and sour. It is described as ‘palatable’ and is characteristic of broths.
Berton gets to the umami by taking the chosen ingredient for the broth to its fullest extent. «The flavors in the broth are concentrated. The intense flavor of the ingredient I use to make the broth emerges». The prosciutto-based broth is among Berton’s best-known: «I have to give it the right umami, that is, I have to enhance the flavor of the prosciutto and make it tasty so that the prosciutto is enhanced even in a liquid presentation».
Chef Andrea Berton says he is increasingly experimenting with grilled cuisine
Chef Andrea Berton says he is increasingly experimenting with grilled cuisine. It is not a return but a direction: «This cooking method, although ancient, is part of modernity with all new features. There are vegetable coals that allow for less smoke to be released, and thus for healthier cooking, preserving in a better way the nature and flavor of the raw materials».
A glass wall separates the dining room from the kitchen. One watches the spectacle of the brigade at work, through a curtain of rough fabric. A harmonious chorus moves among the steel workbenches. The most privileged position to watch is the Carrozza table: a table wrapped in a wooden niche, allowing an even closer experience with the kitchen.
Sustainability according to Andrea Berton – the well-being of the staff
When it comes to sustainability, we are not only referring to the quality of raw materials, the reduction of waste, and the implementation of circular economy practices but also to the sustainability of the workplace. «I want to create a healthy environment for all workers. When I started, at the age of 20, I worked in kitchens where it was 40 degrees. There was a lot of sweating, and the humidity was crazy. I created an environment where you never go over 26-27°C in summer. There is a continuous air recycling system. The air is always clean».
15 people work in Chef Andrea Berton’s brigade. The average age: 25-30 years old. There are three key people who support the Chef in directing the restaurant: Restaurant Manager Gianluca Laserra, Sommelier Luca Enzo Bertè, Executive chef Simone Sangiorgi, and Sous chef Leonardo Manetta.
Andrea Berton, a short biography
Andrea Berton was born in Friuli in 1970. His cooking adventure starts in Milan as a member of Gualtiero Marchesi brigade in Via Bonvesin della Riva. His training continues in the best restaurants of the world: first from Mossiman’s in London, then at the Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence, and finally at the Louis XV in Monaco under the guidance of Alain Ducasse. From 1997 to 2001 he worked as Chef of the Taverna di Colloredo in Monte Albano, gaining his first Michelin star. In 2005 he began a collaboration with the Restaurant of Piazza della Scala in Milan where he obtained several awards such as the first Michelin star in 2008, the second one in 2009, three forks from Gambero Rosso in 2010, and three hats of L’Espresso guide in 2011. In September 2012, together with a group of partners, Andrea Berton opened Pisacco Restaurant and Bar, and, in July 2013, DRY Milano Cocktail&Pizza.
The return to ‘his’ cuisine takes place with the opening of Ristorante Berton where the Chef presents ‘modern dishes’ enhancing the basic ingredients and featuring some ingredients that are not well known. Opened in December 2013, the Restaurant which bears the name of the Chef, is characterized by a cuisine where flavours are always recognizable to the palate. In November 2014 Andrea Berton and his staff were awarded a Michelin Star and in March 2015 Chef Berton was appointed EXPO Chef Ambassador. Nowadays the Chef is engaged in multiple international consulting activities, focusing on the hospitality field.
Andrea Berton’s restaurant is located in the heart of Porta Nuova district, Milan
The construction of the Porta Nuova complex began in 2005 and its execution lasted for about a decade. The area involved covers a total area of 340000 sq. m. including 57000 sq. m. of office space, 11000 sq. m. of commercial space, 160000 sq. m. of pedestrian space, 20000 sq. m. of cultural space, 370 luxury apartments, and about 4000 parking spaces mostly underground. During its construction, it was the largest construction site in Europe, a more than two billion euro operation, with two thousand workers at work and the signatures of twenty architects. The complex has more than twenty buildings including skyscrapers, offices, cultural centers, and urban villas.
