Susanna Galstyan
Hermès: how the quietest house became the loudest name in luxury
Hermès and the re-definition of quiet luxury – the show proves why restraint remains the most powerful force in fashion
Female self-censorship: notes on female rage
The female body is freer than ever before, yet it’s never been as monitored as now. The runway offers options, the network decides what counts
About Antonin Tron at Balmain: can craft survive the celebrity crush?
Who is Antonin Tron at Balmain? From couture roots to social media empire, Balmain’s history, financial data and Rousteing’s legacy set the stage for a material-first vision
Fashion needs authorship above all! Gucci and those sexy brands that are movie producers
As fashion brands invest in cinema, the question is no longer communication vs. marketing, but where authorship is produced and allowed to outlast the runway cycle
It’s just a t-shirt: from Westwood to rebellion, politics, sex, irony
The T-shirt has never been innocent. Westwood made it a weapon, later designers polished it into branding, and today it balances history, humor and activism
Is Valentino Couture about desire – or about voyeurism and denial?
One hole in the wall, many readings: Alessandro Michele’s Valentino couture show becomes a device of voyeurism, a controlled fashion spectacle where desire is visible, regulated, and denied
No return to nature, data is not the enemy: James Deutsher on DEEP
The raw logic behind biodiversity, technology and extraction: James Deutsher’s DEEP proposes a new ecological intelligence – humans are no longer the main character
How Richert Beil shapes garments from grit
From latex tailoring to deadstock suiting, Richert Beil’s work sits in the friction between instinct and resistance—imperfection, limitation and delay are part of the process
