Tag: Fashion
Rupture Paris and Marseille: books, architecture and independent publishing between two cities
Rupture started a renovation that uncovered the original structure of Le Corbusier’s idea – they decided to use only glass, cement, and ceramic materials for the store
Between me and my Calvins: are we still so horny?
To say "it's so Calvin" is a way of saying you are looking at someone undressed and being made to want it — and that the wanting is the point
Moda Ruvida – Prada doesn’t care, and that’s the whole point
Mrs. Prada and Raf Simons: fashion is just an attitude — a black leather jacket, a yellow square on the back, and nothing left to prove
Moda Ruvida: Paul Smith and his unsuitable situations, with some cultural irony
Tailored and relaxed clothes for inappropriate efforts — the Paul Smith show in Milan is still a compendium of sharp formality and broken youth
Hermès, 166 New Bond Street — can you still call it a store?
The new Hermès flagship in London: straw marquetry, horsehair, glass bricks, and the ghost of Seventies punk on New Bond Street
Why you so obsessed with me? An encyclopedia of fashion obsessions
From Luna Rossa and Triple S to the Baguette and Dior's Saddle Bag, an encyclopedia of contemporary fashion obsessions — examining how repetition, visibility, and circulation build desire
Paris Internationale 2023: eco-responsibility, shifting identities, hybridization, excess, eroticism
Multigenerational and inclusive. Paris Internationale presents itself as ‘an unconventional art fair’ that puts the value of collaboration at its center
Fashion creativity needs constraints to move forward
When fashion can no longer expand through excess, it turns inward: constraints on materials, production, and image become the new territory where creativity proves its intelligence and its force
Humble luxury or quiet luxury? The loudest thing you can do is nothing
Quiet luxury performs restraint. Humble luxury performs virtue – whispering "I don't care" loudly: status is now defined by the coherence of one's position – not its visibility – which brands will...
Back to the Antwerp Six: independence reshaped fashion once, why not today again?
Emerging in the 1980s, a group of six designers introduced a model of independent, designer-led fashion that shifted the industry from trend driven systems to authorial practices
Fashion underdogs: the time has come for a revolution
A violent aesthetic built on cuts and lacerations that critics would lazily reduce to the label "Hiroshima chic" – but Kawakubo was excavating something far deeper – the realm of...
Cruise collections: political ideology and the American visibility machine
As Cruise collections migrate toward American cities, the original logic of seasonal escape gives way to something harder to name
Celine after Hedi Slimane: can it be even sexier?
It looks like Michael Rider at Celine works well: in a fragmenting fashion industry, he does not need any claims: not being one thing, being allowed to be anything—it’s an...
Loro Piana Extra Bag by Adrien Dubost: scale without redesign
Shot for Lampoon Meccano, Adrien Dubost places the Extra Bag in an industrial set, isolating its form among steel structures and reflective surfaces to test proportion, material, and construction
More Logo or No Logo: why Louis Vuitton wants it even more
While the system pushes the no-logo narrative through quiet luxury, Louis Vuitton continues to hold its position by keeping power on the logo mania — the Speedy P9 shall prove...
The Beautiful Fall: Meccano of rivalry, calibrated to fail
A story by photographer Eva Baales for Lampoon MECCANO becomes an occasion to reflect on downfall – From Onassis to Lagerfeld, from Callas to Jackie, love turns into leverage
From streetwear to snobwear, the return of Fordian sex, according to Demna
From Los Angeles streetwear roots to a new snobwear elite: Demna reignites Ford-era sensuality while Paris collections respond with their own visions of post-Slimane luxury
Beyond the macho and the ‘spicy Latina’: Latin American fashion today
From Andean textiles at Milan Fashion Week to reggaeton’s global aesthetics, Latin American fashion moves beyond folklore — blending indigenous craft, diaspora identity and pop culture
Fashion and Power: How the Creative Director replaced the Designer
“Fashion is not dead. It is a creeping paralysis.” From bodies on the runway to billions in revenue, today’s creative director is a multitasking human brand selling views as much...
Louis Vuitton: can creativity exceed financial power?
Louis Vuitton embodies financial and branding power. Yet with Nicolas Ghesquière’s FW26 womenswear, the question returns: can creativity remain central inside a luxury empire of such scale?
Hermès: how the quietest house became the loudest name in luxury
Hermès and the re-definition of quiet luxury – the show proves why restraint remains the most powerful force in fashion
Kiko Kostadinov FW26 at Paris Fashion Week: Japanese denim and the Bulgarian diaspora
Laura and Deanna Fanning present Kiko Kostadinov Fall Winter 2026 womenswear through architectural tailoring, urban plumage textures, and the observer–observed dynamic
Balenciaga – is the couturier still alive?
Pierpaolo Piccioli arrives at Balenciaga without erasing Demna. Between Cristóbal’s legacy, Ozempic silhouettes and Euphoria references, Piccioli sits somewhere near the definition of couturier
Recycled fiberglass leads Trotter’s first Bottega chapter
Louise Trotter introduces recycled fiberglass as a material language at Bottega Veneta. Milan's Brutalist architecture provides the reference; Veneto craft anchors the construction
About Antonin Tron at Balmain: can craft survive the celebrity crush?
Who is Antonin Tron at Balmain? From couture roots to social media empire, Balmain’s history, financial data and Rousteing’s legacy set the stage for a material-first vision
Jonathan Anderson and the Power at Dior: creativity, merchandising and celebrity crush
Between atelier discipline and graphic t-shirts, from cinephile obsession to the collective wardrobe: JW Anderson converts film into product; and celebrities into a distribution channel for couture
Fashion needs authorship above all! Gucci and those sexy brands that are movie producers
As fashion brands invest in cinema, the question is no longer communication vs. marketing, but where authorship is produced and allowed to outlast the runway cycle
Chiuri leaves Paris behind: Fendi between Rome and milanese order
From Dior to Fendi, Chiuri dismantles the theater of haute couture and shifts the axis from Paris to Italy, balancing Rome’s legacy with Milan’s discipline
Is it a fashion show or just some showbiz power?
With over 300 brands across New York, London, Milan and Paris—and $1.2B in MIV generated by Paris alone—runways now compete for cultural impact, celebrity reach and digital dominance
It’s just a t-shirt: from Westwood to rebellion, politics, sex, irony
The T-shirt has never been innocent. Westwood made it a weapon, later designers polished it into branding, and today it balances history, humor and activism
90s revisited: nostalgia for dirt, desire, and irreverent fornication
Why 1990s and Early 2000s Nostalgia Still Shapes Fashion and Culture? The decade that promised endless growth, liberal optimism, and global stability has become the default reference point for the...
Is Valentino Couture about desire – or about voyeurism and denial?
One hole in the wall, many readings: Alessandro Michele’s Valentino couture show becomes a device of voyeurism, a controlled fashion spectacle where desire is visible, regulated, and denied
Matthieu Blazy and Couture as an exercise of power
Between strategic caution and craftsmanship as content, Matthieu Blazy’s first Haute Couture uses Couture as an instrument of control, rather than a space for creative assertion
Jonathan Anderson, Dior, and the British Cultural Scratch
Dissidence, irony, and controlled provocation. This is the British contribution to a house that more than any other embodies wealth, heritage, and symbolic power
Zegna, district, manufacturing: is this the only story we need?
It is not fashion. It is work. The “well made,” the cloth that stays in the wardrobe: the Zegna method and what Northern Italian enterprise still teaches
To Love Milan, We Still Need Armani
We need to insist on what Milan looks like. The city’s palette is gray, never flat, altered by rain. Armani, today under the direction of Leo Dell’Orco, remains the clearest...
It’s Prada, Prada again, always Prada. Why are we so obsessed? It’s that sense of balance
In fashion, obsession means Prada. How does Miuccia Prada, also in dialogue with Raf Simons’ cool detachment, continue to rediscover—and redefine—the identity of Milan?
How Richert Beil shapes garments from grit
From latex tailoring to deadstock suiting, Richert Beil’s work sits in the friction between instinct and resistance—imperfection, limitation and delay are part of the process
The rhythm of the body. How Tidjane Tall shifts posture
Shaping presence through movement, Tidjane Tall builds garments that carry a sense of balance — between body, material, and intention
Carly Scott SOAP, automatic purity: a car wash is about your life
The first car wash was born from the belief that purity could be engineered - for Lampoon / SOAP, Carly Scott turns the industrial car wash into a confessional of...
The difference between fashion and style – and the measure of Armani
The Giorgio Armani company: 50 years of activity and operation – style, fashion and measure, pioneering sustainability, message, and Milan’s rough architects
Librairie Sans Titre, Paris. An independent-publishers and artists’ hunter
Finding the spot was a chance event for Mathilde de Galbert, who discovered what she says «looked like a bookshop», while cycling around the neighborhood, one Sunday morning
Sander Lak: navigating the industry with deadstock and smaller scale production
A conversation with Sander Lak on leaving Sies Marjan, exploring work beyond fashion, and returning with a label built on deadstock fabrics and creative independence
Matthieu Blazy at Chanel: What Does It Mean?
A creative director and some consistency: is Matthieu Blazy ready to redefine the visual narrative of Chanel? A story of craftsmanship, material research, and a less ephemeral idea of celebrity...
The art of exit: fashion designers writing their final chapter
From Sunnei’s auction-like finale to Alexander McQueen’s silent salon and Tom Ford’s boardroom battle: each exit reshaped not only a personal career but the direction of entire fashion houses and...
Are the new creative directors interested in sustainability?
A retrospective on whether and how the new creative directors are addressing sustainability – from small independent brands to major fashion houses, from Duran Lantink to Balenciaga
