Ferragamo’s FW23 collection at Milan Fashion Week features tailoring, monochromatic looks, and lavish details by Maximilian Davis
Maximillian Davis presents Ferragamo FW23
After a strong debut with the Spring 2023 collection, Maximilian Davis brings fresh energy to Ferragamo once again. The show took place on a Saturday morning, during the peak of Milan Fashion Week. Hosted in the Allianz MiCo Convention Centre, the black backdrop and white runway set the tone for the play on contrast. Bridging the masculine and feminine styles with a distinctive tailoring approach, Davis presented a well-balanced 67-look collection.
Ferragamo under CEO Marco Gobbetti
Davis’ tenure at Ferragamo began under CEO Marco Gobbetti, who is famed for leading transformation at many houses including Givenchy and Celine. After dropping the “Salvatore” from the name, Davis set to aligning the brand with contemporary design. He crowned this new direction with the adoption of a striking red as a novel house colour.
Introducing the signature red hue was no accident. It echoed his own label, which connected him to his roots through the flag of Trinidad and Tobago. Ferragamo’s archive also features a famous red pump, made for Marilyn Monroe by the founder himself. The colour signifies the effortless mix of his design code with the brand’s, and the interplay of heritage.
Ferragamo – Hollywood in the 50’s
For the Fall/Winter collection, Davis took this modern twist and blended it with inspirations from Hollywood in the 50’s. Back then, the house’s clients included big names like Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe. The period’s signature styles like sweetheart necklines and waist-hugging silhouettes were brought into our modern time. Guests like Uma Thurman, Hunter Schafer, and NCT’s Lee Jeno added to the Hollywood atmosphere.
A dance between monochrome and high contrast
The show opened along with the energetic techno music raising the energy of the brightly illuminated venue. The first to walk out were strong outerwear pieces that blurred the lines between firm and soft contour lines. The theme was that of working with Ferragamo’s codes, like exquisite tailoring and the use of wool. Muted tones of deep blue and green were followed by a wide array of gray. Pieces were balanced with the smart play of serious tailoring and athletic inspirations.
Davis’ introduction of his stinking red house color first came as a full suit, changing the course of the story. Then it cleverly peeked through the details, like the handle of a purse. It was integrated into a leather jacket and pants combo with zippers revealing the strong hue, and similarly in a black blazer with slits at the waist.
Davis switched things up again with monochromatic looks
Just when the oversized red fur coat seemed to be the biggest pop, Davis switched things up again with bright blue and yellow monochromatic looks. This was topped off by a statement mid-calf length leopard print fur coat and matching shoes, and then a mesh top styled with a wrap-skirt featuring the reappearance of the red accents. Opulence brought through the fur coats was a distinct nod at the Hollywood era.
The last looks of the collection brought a new angle to the contrast – this time with textures. Shiny metallic mini dresses simultaneously stood out from and worked with the matte wool pieces. Their interplay was yet another representation of the mix of inspirations from the past and present. The draping throughout the collection was not only a show of pure craftsmanship, but also suggested themes of a renaissance.
A 24-karat gold shoe on the final look completed the set of lavish details within the sophisticated collection. Bags were also a huge moment throughout the show – literally. Aside from the handbags with carefully detailed handles, maxi bags were scattered throughout.
Getting Ferragamo in touch with the new generation
Successfully articulating his design language from the get-go, Davis had launched his debut collection with Fashion East in spring 2021. This was the talent incubator that helped bring brands like JW Anderson and Craig Green to the spotlight. After the launch of his namesake brand, his success was further appreciated in the LVMH Prize young designer competition. But that was also when Ferragamo called, so he dropped out of the competition and put his brand on hold.
Ferragamo’s appointment of Davis was a way to bring the brand, which had been staying in its comfort zone, closer to the new generation of luxury consumers. London club culture and his grandmother in her “Sunday best” outfits were big inspirations for him. Davis already accumulated a strong fanbase, with celebrities like Rihanna, Dua Lipa, and Kim Kardashian already wearing his pieces. With this strong track record, the 27-year-old Davis blends and expresses his own vision seamlessly under Ferragamo.
Ferragamo FW 2023 Show at Milan Fashion Week
The Ferragamo FW 2023 Show was presented on the 25th of February in Milan. This marked creative director Maximilian Davis’s second collection for the Florentine luxury house. Appointed in March 2022, the designer has been key in introducing a youthful angle to the brand’s long-lived codes.
