After eight hundred years of activity, Officina launches the first Eau de Parfum – CEO, Gian Luca Perris. «We wanted to start from the roots. The flower, symbol of Florence, is a complex raw material»
Officina Profumo – Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, Florence
First a monastery, then a pharmacy, and now a store that is considered a museum. The halls of the Officina Profumo – Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, in Florence, Italy, have lived since 1221.
The establishment of the today Officina dates back to a community of Dominican monks who headed in Florence from Bologna and settled the church of Santa Maria delle Vigne.
In this area out of the city walls Dominicans started cultivating officinal herbs. The cultivated area was the garden next to the church that will later on become Santa Maria Novella. Harvested herbs were used to prepare ointments, medicines, and elixirs.
It was during the Medieval period, when herbal medicine, medicine and magic merged, that the Officina that still lives today in Florence started developing.
A perfumery brand over eight Centuries of history
History tells that between 1332 and 1334 a rich merchant was cured by the friars with their ointments and medicines. He therefore decided to pay homage to them with the construction of a chapel dedicated to San Niccolò. The chapel, still visible today, is the hall used for sales in the headquarters in Via della Scala.
In 1381, after decades of plague, the beneficial powers of perfumed waters were discovered, used to sanitize environments, clothing, and people. The Rose Water started being produced. And it is in 1553, during the Renaissance, that Caterina de’ Medici brought to the French court a Water made especially for her in Florence. The Queen’s Water, with its citrus notes, conquered the French hearts.
In 1542 the ancient pharmacy was opened to the public, and in 1612 it took the name of Officina Profumo – Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, as known today.
The words of Gian Luca Perris, CEO of Officina Profumo
Perris, an entrepreneur in the world of fragrances, was appointed CEO of the Officina Profumo – Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella in September 2020 after the Italian Italmobiliare investment group increased its holding in the company. «I wouldn’t say that we create products as they did in the Medieval Times because it wouldn’t be true», he points out. «Products are conceptualized based on formulations from back in the day. Today our products need to be certified, produced with techniques of this age according to industry standards and regulations».
Trust is the base of a company that has chosen to allocate zero budget for marketing and advertising activities, relying on the word-of-mouth among connoisseurs of the brand through the years. «There is a willingness to let the world know about the story of Santa Maria Novella. The approach to communication is evolving, thanks to social media and to consumers that are keen to have contact with companies».
Officine Profumo, a brand development
After the acquisition, Santa Maria Novella navigated a phase, looking to open up to a broader audience without losing its identity and aesthetic. The fonts and branding details – bottles, jars, and cases – represent a nostalgia-infused alternative to the appearances of those in the beauty sector.
«In the rest of the world, we cannot present a location – like the Antica Spezieria, the apothecary shop reserved for sale from 1612 to 1848. That was accessed from the ‘Great Cloister’ of Santa Maria Novella through the portal designed by Matteo Nigetti, or the store we have in Via della Scala, in Florence. The products are what convey the brand’s image and message», Perri says.
«Our range is covered in a way that we can look into people and their needs», Perris says. «Markets, including Asia, prefer fresher and lighter colognes. Areas in the United States or Japan appreciate home fragrances, while others pander in skincare».
Firenze 1221 Edition
In 2021, to celebrate the eight-hundredth year since its birth, Officina Profumo– Farmaceutica created Firenze 1221, a special edition of seven historical fragrances and a new one.
Firenze 1221 Edition symbolized at the same time a homage to tradition and a shift toward contemporary needs. The bottles of the Eau de Cologne historically made by Luigi Bormioli glassmakers, returned to their transparent finish, to allow one to admire the perfume in its ‘nakedness’. The sinuosity of the bottle respects the original silhouette of the Eau de Cologne, as well as the monogram in relief, still present.
The bottle of the Acque di Colonia was also updated. From the screen printing on glass Officina decided to return to a printed label, born by reworking the brand’s historical graphics. The result is a label which includes the symbolism dear to the Florentine brand.
L’Iris: the first Eau de Perfum after 800 years of activity
In 2021, after eight hundred years of activity, Officina chose to launch the first Eau de Parfum of the Maison. «We wanted to start from the roots. The flower, symbol of Florence, is, not by chance, a complex raw material», explains Mr. Perris, nose creator of the fragrance. It takes in fact six years of growth before being able to extract the essence of the Iris.
The Iris, or lily, is the symbol of the city of Florence itself. Its image dates back to 1266, celebrating the Guelph victory over the Ghibellines.
The essence is admirable in its glass bottle, with a clear pump – to preserve the color of the product – decorated with the monogram of the Maison in relief. The velvety finish of the label resumes the feeling of the flower.
The new product tries to materialize the essence of Officina’s values: a place of research, chemistry, invention and culture.
Santa Maria Novella: FSC certified paper and regenerated plastic
During the last years, the company has also been investing in sustainable solutions, such as FSC certified paper and regenerated plastic. In addition to its commitment to the valorization of glass, ongoing research is dedicated to packaging materials, with the environmental impact and recyclability in mind.
The Firenze 1221 Edition was made of Fedrigoni paper, an Italian historical source. The selected paper is FSC certified, a sign of respect for the environment.
A pledge to sourcing supplies locally, when available, plays a role, as Perris says: «An ingredient in our products is Balsamite, an herb we grow and harvest in our 15,000 square meters garden in Florence while others come from our local area». Cases and bottles are sourced from suppliers in Florence or in Italy, he adds. «The Italmobiliare group conducts an audit to understand how sustainable we are».
Santa Maria Novella’s production facility has had solar panels installed as well. The firm researches and implements solutions for waste-water treatment and the use of non-harmful products, Perris notes.
Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella
Via della Scala, 16, 50123 Firenze FI, Italy. The Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella is a perfumery and herbalist in Florence. It is described as the oldest pharmacy in the world.
