Perfumery Archive

/ Perfumery

How Maison Margiela’s Replica Line Bottled Winter’s Essence

From Chamonix’s Snow-Covered Chalets to the Lab: By the Fireplace, part of the Replica collection, draws on the nostalgia of 1970s Chamonix, blending raw materials and alpine culture into a fragrance

/ Perfumery

Étoile de Bali by Nectar Olfactif: Balinese Flower Rain Reimagined

Nectar Olfactif reinterprets the Balinese tradition of flower rain in a fragrance that blends cultural symbolism with olfactory craftsmanship

/ Perfumery

Hope: The Middle Eastern Legacy of Oud in Modern Perfumery

From incense-filled mosques to haute couture, Hope bridges cultures and eras with its blend – a dive into the history and artistry resonance of oud, as captured in Dominique Ropion’s latest creation for Frédéric Malle

/ Perfumery

The dandy: Penhaligon’s fragrance brings a modern interpretation to an age-old figure

From Beau Brummell to Timothée Chalamet, the dandy has evolved but never disappeared – exploring Penhaligon’s latest fragrance, a celebration of the 1920s dandy

/ Perfumery

Santa Maria Novella: the Iris, or lily, is the symbol of the city of Florence itself

Recently appointed CEO, Gian Luca Perris, talk us through the history and the ethos of 400-year-old perfumery Santa Maria Novella, established in Florence by Dominican monks

/ Perfumery

Lunatique, Liquides Imaginaires: going back to perfume’s mystical origins with Philippe Di Méo

A new fragrance in the Alchemical Trilogy series, Lunatique combines mythology with technology. An interview with Philippe Di Méo on spirituality, mystery, and raw materials

/ Perfumery

Barénia: Christine Nagel’s latest creation is Hermès’ first Chypre

Chypre has a new declination, according to Christine Nagel – Barénia is meant to be a tangible representation of Hermès codes in its essence and aesthetics, from the artisanal leather to the Collier de chien

/ Perfumery

The scents of the forests of the Abruzzo National Park: Parco1923

The botanists and the art of Luca Maffei's nose have led to an alchemy: protection of flora and fauna has been proceeded for about a hundred years - Parco1923, Paride Vitale

/ Perfumery

Amouage, Purpose: Quentin Bisch enhancing the freshness of Omani frankincense

The tree is a visual metaphor for what the perfume expresses on an olfactory level, playing on the contrast and duality between smoky, resinous, warm, and woody notes and other fresher ones

/ Perfumery

Les Exclusifs de Chanel: celebrating the disruption of conventional norms in perfumery

Henri Robert, Jacques Polge, and Olivier Polge, inherited Beaux’s duty to maintain N°5’s production, preserving raw materials while reinventing it. In 2007 Chanel Les Exclusifs was born

/ Perfumery

Maison Francis Kurkdjian, Cologne forte. A collection of gender-neutral fragrances

«Eau de Cologne is a classic olfactive form. The power of classism relies in the simplicity of an expression and minimalism of the form»

/ Perfumery

Nobile 1942: Damask silk from Lorsica and hand-blown glass from Altare

The Rigati collection: ‘Rigati’ means ‘striped’ in Italian, referring to the old striped buildings made of marble and slate typically found in Genoa, where Nobile 1942’s warehouse is located

/ Perfumery

Augustinus Bader – cellular renewal research and proprietary TFC8 technology

Trigger Factor Complex: forty amino acids, peptides, vitamins and synthetic molecules naturally occurring in the skin, Professor Bader’s research and the studies on skin burns

/ Perfumery

Preserving Collective Memory Through Art and Fragrance: BYREDO and Dozie Kanu, Bal d’Afrique

Bal d'Afrique, which was inspired by someone else's memories, was created with the intention of preserving and celebrating diasporic connections

/ Perfumery, raw materials

From High-Fluorescent Tones to Haikus – Samuel Ross for Acqua di Parma

A scented flipbook, containing slits of images, sketches, and notes. The verbiage in the book is immediately accessible, in a Pantone like format

/ Perfumery, raw materials

Ecologically aware methods for incorporating musk – Le Labo Eau de Parfum

Genderless scents that are united by their use of cruelty free alternatives to musk and ambergris – the Ambroxyde 17 candle with eau de parfums Lys 41 and Ambrette 9

/ hermes, Perfumery

Hermès, Un Jardin à Cythère: an unspoiled Greek garden on the isle of Kythira

Christine Nagel gave life to the 7th fragrance of the Hermès Parfums Jardins series – an olfactory quest through Greece that leads to Kythira, combining grasses, olive wood and fresh pistachio

/ Perfumery, raw materials

Franck Boclet, Rock’ N Raï: the gardens of Majorelle, Berber scarves and Chefchaouen

«Spending days in Turkish baths and walking through rooms filled with rose oil, reminiscing the essence while enjoying the taste and aroma of orange water all around you» – Franck Boclet on Rock' N Raï

/ naturally sourced, Perfumery

Frédéric Malle, Uncut Gem by Maurice Roucel: the obsolete codes of masculinity

The fragrance was born from the cologne that the Nose had created for himself, he was convinced by Malle to reproduce the more masculine version

/ naturally sourced, Perfumery

Ambre Chromatique, Maison Crivelli: Thibaud Crivelli introduces the Slow perfume

Thibaud Crivelli worked with the French perfumier Quentin Bisch to transform the memory of a night trek in a tropical forest into a fragrance – everything starts from a synesthesia

/ California, Perfumery

Eau de Californie, Celine: Hedi Slimane’s home in Beverly Hills

Hedi Slimane pays homage to his love affair with California: summers on the beaches of San Clemente and San Onofre, the scent of Connolly leather on a Rolls Royce Corniche

/ Perfumery

Sable Nuit, Armani Privé: an untold story between Armani and the Middle East

The unisex Armani Sable Nuit has been created by the perfumer Nicolas Beaulieu as an homage to nature and its contrasts - an olfactory oxymoron

/ Perfumery

Dr Vranjes Firenze, Rosa Tabacco: natural is not synonymous with safety

«I created the first perfume for myself, the second for my loved ones and the third for the public», in conversation with Dr. Paolo Vranjes

/ London, Perfumery

Jo Malone, English Pear and Freesia: English autumn and the orchard at harvest

John Keats’ poem To Autumn inspires a fragrance that is reminiscent of the English countryside by combining the fruit and flower

/ Milan, Perfumery

Magna Pars L’Hotel À Parfum, Milan. Italian raw materials by Ambra Martone

Each room is dedicated to one of sixty-eight different scents, chosen by an olfactory check-in, solely based on smell: Magna Pars is the first hotel à parfum in the world

/ Perfumery

Carthusia, Capri. What does the most beautiful place in the world smell like?

Those who land on the island are dazzled by the light and surprised by the orography - but it is the perfumes that get you drunk. Carthusia fragrances encapsulate the essence of Capri

/ Perfumery

Ormaie. Organic perfumes with an architectural integrity rooted in Baptiste Bouygues’ childhood

Pain Perdu emulates french toast, Papier Carbonne is inspired by his elementary school. Baptiste Bouygues has built Ormaie on memories

/ Paris, Perfumery

Cologne Indélébile by Frédéric Malle. Permanence in a bottle

Frédéric Malle is a third generation perfumer «perfume? I spoke the language without knowing it». Along with Dominique Ropion they collaborate again for Cologne Indélébile

/ Paris, Perfumery

Apple Brandy on the Rocks, Kilian. Mr. Hennessy pays homage to the Big Apple

Refillable bottles have been the epitome of Kilian Paris since the beginning. Mr Hennessy is transported to a memory of his grandmother refilling her initial engraved perfume bottle

/ Milan, Perfumery

Atelier Cologne, Milan. Formulas that are still secrets today

The story of an Italian perfume for a city in Germany – rekindling the culture that fires desire, if an Eau de Cologne can touch the memory of people and places

/ Perfumery

Vertigo 1973, LabSolue. A circular encounter of hot and cold

France claims supremacy in the perfume arts – but Italy shows its creative resources and the production ability to compete. A long-standing pharmaceutical company is an absolute perfume laboratory

/ Italy, Perfumery

Irene Forte, Hibiscus Night Cream. Myoxinol acts in a similar way to injectables in reducing lines

Paying tribute to her roots, Irene Forte wanted a brand that was one hundred percent Italian. She set out to find a lab which would reflect her ethos in terms of sustainability and efficacy

/ Paris, Perfumery

Géranium Pour Monsieur, Frédéric Malle. Whilst there is a freshness to it, there is also warmth

When Malle creates a perfume, he pictures the person who would wear it. For Géranium Pour Monsieur, he thinks of the Italian director, Luchino Visconti, and the drummer of Rolling Stones, Charlie Watts

/ Humanities, Perfumery

Tranquillity, Davines. The beauty industry would be less polluting if it started with agriculture

Founded in Parma, Italy in 1983 by the Bollati family, the Davines group has been devoted to comprehensive sustainability for over twenty years

/ Copenhagen, Perfumery

In a beauty salon, a twenty-six-year-old brush continues to do its job – Cim Mahony

Since 2014 hairstylist Cim Mahony has received a limited number of clients by appointment only at his salon, which he opened together with his wife Lotte Barnholdt in the center of Copenhagen

/ Chanel, Perfumery

Not cheesy anymore: the beauty industry is a matter of transparency and agriculture

Agroforestry, organic cultivation, and permaculture, techniques for preservation of local species: an introduction to Chanel’s open sky laboratories

/ Humanities, Perfumery

Chanel, Paris. The symbolic value of the lion, the strength of Coco Chanel

The revelation of an untold aspect of the founder's existence. From 'Coco' Chanel’s zodiac sign, to the Lion of Venice which struck a chord with the founder and sealed her fate till death

/ naturally sourced, Perfumery

Jacaranda, Fueguia 1833. Botany based on the activation of existing resources

«Sustainability is about finding imperfections and transforming them into something that can be used». Julian Bedel, founder of Fueguia 1833, celebrates the richness of South American heritage

/ Mexico, Perfumery

Coqui Coqui Perfumería, Mexico. The legacy of Mayan medicine and Franciscan emulsions

A distillery in the Yucatan Peninsula recreates ancient fragrances meant for everyone –a child, a grandfather, a Parisian or a Mayan

/ Perfumery, Yves Saint Laurent

Grain de Poudre, Yves Saint Laurent. The strength of being naked

Scent is the brother of breath - The story of Grain de Poudre perfumes and the ascent of perfumery in the haute couture

/ Paris, Perfumery

Nose, Paris. Choosing perfume is a matter of science

Packaging and branding influence buying trends, especially when it comes to fashion. A blind test allows customers at Nose to find a fragrance that reflects them

/ crafting, Lampoon Issue 24, Perfumery

Musings on porcelain. Ginori’s history and manufacturing facility. Between poetry and powder

From Ginori’s manufacturing facility, exploring the creation of an artisanal product between poetry and powder, and insects over errors

/ London, Perfumery

Perfumer H, London. Infusing the traditions of French perfumery with an English slant

Planet-friendly ethics weave themselves into the brand experience. Building sustainability into the design, the laboratory part of the space has been made using reclaimed-wood

/ naturally sourced, Perfumery

The overlay of six different shades of Musk, more about Musk complexity fragrance

The union of a single natural raw material such as musk together with wood, spices, fruits and flowers searches for three-dimensionality in the collection of fragrances

/ Lampoon Issue 24, Perfumery

A 55.55 carat diamond: the 100th anniversary of N°5 Chanel talking with Patrice Leguéreau

The Director of Chanel’s Fine Jewelry Creation Studio describes the journey that led him to Collection N°5 Grasse, its jasmine and May rose fields, and the pink, red and yellow tones of the Mediterranean

/ Perfumery

Tappi rari, Locherber. Natural does not always mean good

Brigitte Bärlocher takes us through the history of the famiy and how natural does not always mean good: «What we do is find a balance between natural and chemical. We test each product for a couple of years before launching. It’s a long process»

/ Paris, Perfumery

Sana Jardin – perfumes from flower waste to give Berber women their own power

Sustainable production as a vehicle for social impact: for Sana Jardin, Berber and Amazigh women learn to upcycle floral waste. In conversation with Amy Christiansen

/ Lampoon Issue 22, Perfumery

My Way, Giorgio Armani. Packaging and carbon offsetting procedures – awarded by Accademia del Profumo

Formula, packaging and supply chain: Accademia Del Profumo rewarded My Way fragrance for responsible innovation. Adviser and facilitator Nigel Salter explains the production process

/ Perfumery

The Absolute, Noble Panacea. Active daily doses of OSMV™

In an industry saturated with rarely-kept promises of fountain-of-youth Nobel Laureate Sir Fraser Stoddart points to the truth of science, developing the Organic Super Molecular Vessel technology