Genderless scents that are united by their use of cruelty free alternatives to musk and ambergris – the Ambroxyde 17 candle with eau de parfums Lys 41 and Ambrette 9
Le Labo, France to New York
The driving philosophy of Le Labo is to follow the principles of slow perfumery with an emphasis on raw materials. This has fed through to their practice of naming their fragrances after the key ingredient, providing a recognisable brand identity. There is also a connection across all of the fragrances in their commitment to genderless elements and a commitment to ethical solutions that equally carries through to their home scents.
From Musk to Ambergris to Ambroxyde 17
Its name derives from the original, and costly, sourcing from the glandular secretions of the musk deer with its heady, intense notes: the name originating from the resemblance between the ‘muska’ or testicles in Sanskrit.
In addition to having been used as a scent element, it has also been historically used as a fixative on account of its strength of fragrance that provides a grounding base note with staying power. In recognition of the power of musk as an aromatic element, another source that replicated such elements was in turn found. This was Ambergris.
Floating gold – Ambergris
Known as floating gold, it is sourced from the digestive system of sperm whales, developing in their bile duct before it is excreted like fecal matter. It is a solid, waxy substance that develops an earthly scent as it ages through floating on the surface of sea water or on the beaches.
It is found most commonly in the Atlantic Ocean in areas such as India, Madagascar and the East Indies, with ever increasing rarity. In more recent years, therefore, unethical methods have been developed to increase the frequency with which the substance can be found, including the illegal hunting of whales.
As a consequence, this has led to the banning of whale hunting in selected regions across this area in an effort to preserve the species rather than to see their destruction as the result of a human desire for a certain fragrance note.
Ambrette seed and Ambroxyin
Alternatives to musk sources were sought over time on account of its costliness and the ethical issues surrounding its procurement from either the musk deer or the sperm whale. Comparable notes now have been found in plants such as Ambrette seed and in synthetic substances such as Ambroxyin.
These offer more ethical alternatives to the animal sources previously used for the sourcing of musky aromatic elements and it is therefore unsurprising that Le Labo has made use of these alternatives within the scent profiles that they have developed in line with their ethical philosophies.
Ambroxyide 17 – the candle
The most recent of these is in their candle named Ambroxyide 17. Its closest cousin is the fragrance ‘Another 13’ that was released in 2010 in collaboration with AnOther magazine and Colette Store in Paris. Characterized by its intense yet elusive notes, it is a melange of moss and jasmine, underscored by citrus and musk.
It is in this latter element that Le Labo emphasizes its commitment to sustainable ingredients. Rather than use musk or Ambergris, the ingredient used is Ambroxide: a synthetic element that was developed in the 1950s and is synthesized from a component of clary sage.
Ambroxyde 17 the cousin of AnOther 13
Le Labo decided to explore the fragrance profile of Another 13 in a different guise. Ambroxyde 17 is described as the ‘cousin to Another 13’ and is united in the use of ambroxyde as a cruelty free alternative to ambergris. As with the perfume it radiates an intensity that is attributable to this base note in addition to the melange of musky elements in combination with jasmine and notes of moss.
While there may be a difference between the impact of a scent worn on the skin as opposed to one permeated through a room, the essential impact is the same. Musk – in an ethical version – either emanates from the wearer or diffuses through the space in an animalic and intriguing way.
Genderless Fragrances that Challenge the Senses: Ambrette 9
A commitment to the raw materials has always underscored the brand philosophy of Le Labo, as demonstrated in their continued and idiosyncratic method of naming their fragrances after the key defining element.This can be observed in elements such as Santal 33 and The Noir 29, amongst others.
In Ambrette 9, this choice of emphasizing the key note is also tied to the ethical choices that underscore the brand. Its key element is ambrette seed, which is the unique musky scent that is found in nature without any implications on animals. Derived from the dried seeds of musk mallow, this perennial shrub is mainly found in tropical Asia with the seed pods being dried before distillation.
The result is a plant based alternative to the musky notes derived from animals and from the synthetic compounds such as Ambroxyde for which it provides a perhaps more delicate alternative. This is created through the top notes of citrus and fruit such as Amalfi Lemon that balance the intensity of the Ambrette Seed.
Le Labo: Lys 41
This move towards fragrances that have a somewhat more feminine aspect, despite their genderless element is common to Lys 41. Launched in 2013 and developed by Daphné Bugey, it is one of the few fragrances by Le Labo that has been specifically designated as a feminine scent.
As with so many of the Le Labo fragrances, it has a musky element as its base, yet the top notes endow it with an infinitely more delicate air. These include jasmine, vanilla and (as the name would suggest) a strong dose of lily. The result is a light fragrance that has a warmth that combines with its white floral character. Though as much characterized by this floral element, it is ultimately the musk that unites it as part of the emblematic Le Labo range.
A Commitment to Community and Reuse
Perhaps one of the best known brand philosophies of Le Labo is its perfume refill system. Customers are encouraged to bring their empty containers back to stores for the bottle to be reutilised for their next dose of their favored fragrance.
This does not only decrease the need for new packaging and bottling but reduces waste across the whole company. In a method that might be likened to that of a laboratory, from which Le Labo incidentally derives its name, fragrances are blended to order in store so as to ensure that they are freshly created for each wearer and are not over produced subject to speculative demand.
The home fragrances – Le Labo
This same emphasis on sustainability carries through into the home fragrances that Le Labo has gradually introduced to its range. All are made from a blend of natural waxes and a natural wick to ensure the cleanest burning process possible.
Le Labo works closely with a range of its suppliers including those of raw ingredients to those who provide the packaging for their candles; that as much as possible use recycled wood in order to eliminate wastage. The result, therefore, is a brand that as much as it is at the forefront of the niche world of fragrance retains its commitment to animal friendly and ecologically aware methods that it has retained since its foundation.
Le Labo
Since its inauguration in 2006, Le Labo has positioned itself as a gamechanger in the world of niche perfume. Its founders derived their inspiration from Grasse in France and transported it to New York where their first stand alone store established their brand initiative to have the boutiques serve as an open artisanal laboratory with fragrances freshly hand-blended to order.
Genevieve Verdigel
