From Versace’s BDSM-inspired looks to Diesel’s mountain of condoms: has the sex representation gone too far? Or is it freedom of expression reaching its peak?
Fashion knows that sex sells: boobs and dicks are the new legs
The fantasies, the daring approach, the romanticization of our vulnerabilities, and the intimate and glorifying aspect of our private lives; sex has been a consistent source of inspiration for the fashion industry.
The provocative garments and runway shows on the themes of sexuality, fetishism, and subversion have crafted landmark moments in fashion history when the artful and the adult reached an explicit climax.
If the fashion of yesterday was about exploration, taboos, and romanticization of sex work, where the act was a medium for social and political commentary, inviting to push boundaries, today’s agenda covers a different story and it blurs the lines between the public and the private spheres, embracing a more overt and confident expression of sexuality.
Versace, Thierry Mugler, Alexander McQueen – fashion brands into sex BDSM, bondage and fetish-wear
The glamorisation of prostitution, the role of dominatrixes, and BDSM often fail to recognize the value of giving back to sex workers. It makes us wonder whether it needs to be considered cultural appreciation or appropriation.
Mainstream society often enjoys observing alternative lifestyles for inspiration because they believe interesting things happen in underground spaces. These realities have been either ignored or romanticised in campaigns, creating various archetypes such as the objectified siren, fashion victim, streetwalker, and seductress. However, we must recognise that being able to wear clothing associated with sex work without facing harassment or criminalisation is a privilege that is often overlooked by society at large.
Miss S&M – Gianni Versace’s Fall/Winter 1992 has cleared sex in fashion
Fetish has been translated on the catwalk codes through experiments in leather, PVC, and bondage details. It started with the collections of Thierry Mugler and Alexander McQueen and, above all, with Gianni Versace’s Fall/Winter 1992 collection entitled Miss S&M, where the models paraded in dog collars, leather harnesses, bustiers, and BDSM-inspired accessories, a juxtaposition between the objects related to erotic activities based on the imbalance of power and more traditional garments.
The fun and the controversy always lie in the possibility of exposing the hypocrisy of a ‘normal’ society that oftentimes lacks authenticity and spontaneity.
Hood by Air collaborations with Pornhub at New York Fashion Week
In 2017, Hood by Air showcased an unconventional collaboration featuring a range of clothing and accessories that combined streetwear and eroticism with elements featuring both the Hood by Air and Pornhub logos.
The inspiration for the catwalk was a sexualized riff on the covers of the Baby-Sitters Club book series, where models were portrayed as children playing up with Vaseline and heavy make-up running down their faces.
Again, it was not about the unconventional or the dress-to-impress looks but rather the intention to convey a sense of youthful curiosity and experimentation.
Shayne Oliver, the brand’s former designer, told Vogue Runway that the company didn’t want to collaborate with clothing companies for this collection but with businesses that had liberal ideas and spirits, just like Pornhub, describing it as a great way of selling ideas.
Diesel, Glenn Martens: butt plugs and condoms on the runway to democratize sex
In the wake of the post-self-confinement era due to Covid, fashion has established new ways to communicate with the audience, bringing sex openly into the conversation rather than hitting us with shock value.
Martens’ ambition to talk to people had translated into a complete democratization of the brand, making it more accessible and inclusive, breaking down traditional barriers and reaching a wider audience, catering to different body types, ages, and gender identities, and embracing diversity and individuality.
For the occasion of Milan Fashion Week 2023 Martens set up the fashion show venue with an installation of 200 000 condoms in the name of freedom, pleasure, experimentation, play, and sex positivity, against societal rules and confined spaces. A celebration of beauty in broken and imperfect pieces.
Gen Z and Gen X are more willing to wear and criticize sex rather than have it
Recent studies conducted by universities in the UK and the US – one of which was highlighted in a 2022 report by The New Yorker – have indicated that teenagers and young adults are engaging in less sexual activity compared to previous generations such as millennials and boomers. As a result, headlines increasingly characterize Generation Z (born between 1996 and 2012) as ‘sex negative’ and experiencing a ‘sex recession’.
While the whole discourse seems highly hypocritical one major doubt arises: why would this category be shamed for not having ‘enough’ sex while they already have to deal with major issues like poor mental health, the influence of overprotective parenting, the impact of the pandemic on their social life, and the challenges posed by the cost of living crisis?
On the other hand, the younger generations are the ones most likely to have a conservative view on sex and prioritize socializing and forming connections rather than engaging in face-to-face interactions or physical intimacy since they have grown up in the era of advanced technology, widespread internet access, and social media.
The portrayal of sensuality and femininity by brands like Céline, Hermès, Bottega Veneta
Sex in fashion has never been out of style, although it has lately been replaced by the minimalist, androgynous, tailored stylings of brands such as Céline, Hermès, Bottega Veneta, and The Row. Those brands gained admiration for their subtle portrayal of sensuality and femininity, carrying on the philosophy that rejected the overt display of sex appeal in favor of more relaxed fits, valuing intellectuality over exposed skin, with oversized trench coats, tailored pieces inspired by men’s fashion, and the minimalistic juxtaposition of color blocking.
Why has the concept of sexiness suddenly made a comeback? Current fashion collections were created in response to the pandemic. After nearly two years of lacking sensuality, frivolity, and spontaneity, it is unsurprising that designers believe women will want to venture out and reveal some skin.
It could be this or the simpler explanation that trends come in a circle, and so sex was bound to return on the runway.
The return of sex in fashion through self-expression
Women have made their way through the glass ceiling over the past few years, they even have outnumbered men in many working sectors. There has been a remarkable growth in the presence of female world leaders, with 14 nations currently being led by women. We are not all the way there with gender equality, but great achievements have been made.
In this new global paradigm, the concept of sexiness takes on a renewed form, as we are over objectification and the use of sexual imagery that can lead to the objectification of women made to please the male gaze.
The return of sex in fashion this time hits differently: the empowered vision of sexuality is rooted in self-expression, the eschewing of traditional beauty ideals, and the principle that women should be able to make informed and empowered choices about how they present themselves in the world.
