Duran Lantink’s journey from Amsterdam to Paris also marked a shift in creative vision, while keeping sustainable practices at the core of the brand
Duran Lantink’s debut on the official Paris Fashion Week Calendar
As Paris Fashion Week nears its end, emerging talents show that there is still more to look forward to. Duran Lantink is a Dutch designer, formerly based in Amsterdam, and now in Paris. Circularity and upcycling were keywords bringing him to the spotlight in his earlier collections, which remains as a base he continues to build on with his newer work.
While still based in Amsterdam, Lantink was focused on taking overstock designer items and repurposing them to become brand new garments. Playing around with the mix and match of clothes since he was a kid, his initial spark came from looking at fashion from the perspective of styling. This led to the natural progression of cutting up different designer pieces and creating something new out of them. Although sustainability wasn’t the goal in the beginning, it became a guiding principle as the designer matured.
Evolving brand identity keeping sustainability at core – Duran Lantink
Following his Paris debut in March with the Fall collection, it became clear that Lantink’s approach to his namesake brand was evolving. Moving not only his brand, but also his apartment to Paris was the precursor for change. The brand shifted to a seasonal schedule, with the aim of establishing the brand as a more serious powerhouse. Keeping sustainability at the core yet demonstrating that it’s not the brand’s only appeal is the goal.
Lantink’s Spring 2024 collection takes notable strides towards this goal, building further on his visual identity as a designer while still making space for upcycled materials. Having moved away from leaving hints of the garments’ past life within his creations with the past collection, Lantink is instead using deadstock for the raw materials. The Spring collection featured 95% upcycled materials, and the parts that were new were hand-knitted from wool.
Duran Lantink: Florals and sea inspirations for the Spring 24
Presenting the new collection as part of the official calendar wasn’t the main attraction for Lantink. As long as he was able to show what he does and work in his own time, he was satisfied. The show took place at Palais de Tokyo, with a minimal setup that let the pieces speak for themselves.
With the strong strums of a guitar creating the pace, the show opened with contrasting silhouettes at work. Pieces with a floral print which from afar looked like assorted precious stones walked out in structured forms. The pattern took the form of swimwear too, and was styled with a matching bag worn in a way that resembled a jetpack. This was mixed with all white translucent dresses, which were flowing with the models’ movements.
Exaggerated and mushroom-like silhouettes were carried from the previous season. Men’s looks featured mini denim bottoms shaped with a bubbly structure, styled with a matching denim jacket or just with high boots. Navy and white went together with ease, which, coupled with stripes and large toggle buttons, spread a sea breeze. This continued with a life jacket that was worked into a green bomber jacket.
Playing with shapes and silhouettes – Duran Lantink SS24
A white bubble crop top paired with a see-through black maxi skirt was a highlight of the interplay of silhouettes, and the two pieces came together through the black webs-like tassels blurring the edges. Lantink’s play on contours reached its peak with the two looks almost halfway into the show, separated with intention by a red onesie.
The two looks, one black and the other red, showcased craftsmanship by building 3D shapes mainly on the front side of the garment, leaving the back supported by a thin mesh. This led the way to an array of white and light gray looks, tied together by the figure-hugging beige details.
The last looks of the collection featured a mix of light blue shirts, neutrally colored and straight-legged pants, and light knits and blazers. This felt like a nod at the quiet luxury trends that have spread to every corner of fashion, but with a Duran Lantink twist.
The shirts continued the play in proportions, some featuring the same bubble cut and crop while others were skin-tight. Cutouts distinguished the knits, while the simple white tank top was not simple at all with shoulders raised to ear level and an accentuated waist.
Duran Lantink SS24 – Finding a signature as an up-and-coming designer
Questioning relationships with traditional clothing also emerges as a key theme in Lantink’s work. The Spring 2024 collection was clear on its mission of exploring shapes and the way the human body interacts with them.
Lantink is still in the process of finding his true voice as a designer, and he’s not afraid to make the journey known. Experimentation was at the core of the Spring 2024 collection, aiming to find a balance between wearable pieces and ones that resembled art pieces. This was established further by V&A and the Stedelijk Museums acquiring some of his work for their permanent collections.
Duran Lantink Spring 2024 Show at Paris Fashion Week
The Duran Lantink Spring 2024 Show was presented on the 3rd of October in Paris. Marking the Belgian designer’s second show in Paris, it was also his debut show within the official calendar.
