SA SU PHI: Italian knitwear built on proportion and purity

Drawing on the principles of the golden ratio, Sara Ferrero and Susanna Cucco design collections defined by essential forms, refined materials, and long-term wearability

SA SU PHI, Sara Ferrero and Susanna Cucco

Sara Ferrero and Susanna Cucco anticipated a renewed interest in classicism, translating their shared vision of style into a clothing project. SA SU PHI was founded in 2021 and merges the aesthetic sensibility, perspectives, and professional experiences of its founders, long-time friends and collaborators.

SA SU PHI can be seen as the outcome of both founders’ professional paths. Ferrero has more than twenty years of experience in the corporate world, where she held executive roles in fashion and design companies. Cucco is the founder and creative director of Studio Cucco, an art direction agency that has worked with luxury fashion and lifestyle brands for over twenty-five years.

The founders of SA SU PHI: Sara Ferrero and Susanna Cucco on redefining contemporary knitwear

“When I left Valextra in 2021, a new chapter opened for me and my career. I began thinking about what I wanted to do next. Having mostly worked for others throughout my career, I felt the need to start my own project. But doing it alone did not suit me, so I told Susanna about it, and she agreed immediately. For me, the value of developing a project with someone else lies in sharing successes, decisions, but also challenges and difficult times,” says Ferrero.

SA SU PHI is based on a simple and functional structure, defined by a fluid balance between the two founders and supported in daily activities by a small all-female team.

While daily operations require different managerial and creative skills, each part of the collection is designed collaboratively, combining their distinct approaches to volume and styling. “Contamination is always layered, especially when it comes to women. Our mindset is different from that of men, and the collaboration between women is often more emotional, unpredictable, and dynamic,” Cucco notes.

SA SU PHI is both a fashion brand open to creative exchange and a platform that highlights female talent in a still male-dominated industry.

The meaning of PHI in SA SU PHI: the golden ratio as a design philosophy

SA SU PHI is composed of three elements: SA (Sara), SU (Susanna), and PHI, the golden ratio—considered in mathematics and the arts a symbol of harmonic proportion. “We spent a whole day searching for the right name. PHI, with its connection to minimalism and balanced proportions, became our starting point. In the end, it only took a few minutes to conceive SA SU PHI,” say Ferrero and Cucco.

When read together, SA SU PHI sounds like “ça suffit”, French for “it is sufficient.” This reference aligns with the founders’ linear, simple, and classic design philosophy, where nothing is superfluous and everything has a purpose. The garments are designed to be timeless and essential, interpreted through a contemporary lens. “Our goal is not to create a uniform women must adapt to, but rather modules that are interchangeable and adaptable,” Cucco explains.

Architecture-inspired fashion: how SA SU PHI transforms structure and volume into timeless knitwear

The knitwear pieces—the brand’s core products—feature three-dimensional structures, balances of full and void, detachable sleeves, and graphic elements emphasized by the texture of refined materials. The pursuit of purity and essential lines is reflected in the choice of classic natural fibers, such as cotton and silk, sourced from local producers. The combinations of fabrics, characteristic of Ferrero and Cucco’s styling, are intended to enhance the qualities of each material.

SA SU PHI collections reflect an architectural approach, a design ethos drawn from the founders’ previous professional experiences. “Architecture and product design, unlike fashion, focus on things made to last, which influence how we perceive and interact with our environment. Behind every piece there is study and research. In SA SU PHI we try to go beyond aesthetics, developing a structured design philosophy,” Cucco explains.

Made by women for women: SA SU PHI’s approach to sustainable, long-lasting fashion

SA SU PHI was not conceived as a “women’s brand,” but draws inspiration from Ferrero and Cucco’s circle of friends—people who motivate and inspire them daily. “Our woman is someone who goes places and does things. She must feel comfortable and confident throughout the day, recognizing herself in what she wears. She is also conscious of what she buys, seeking pieces that can accompany her over time, beyond temporary trends,” the designers say.

The collections are made up of garments that can remain in a woman’s wardrobe for years without losing relevance, gradually shaping a personal aesthetic. To counter the volatility of seasonal trends, the pieces are designed with continuity, ensuring an ongoing stylistic evolution. “There is never a clear break between one season and another. Everything is interchangeable—we always think about how pieces from the previous collection can evolve in the new one. Each season may have a leading color or new element, but our goal is to create a style that allows women to feel right in every moment,” they add.

SA SU PHI: functional design and Italian knitwear made to be worn

Without a strict division between feminine and non-feminine, or between classic and avant-garde, SA SU PHI collections reflect the founders’ lifestyle and design approach. Ferrero and Cucco are the first to test their creations. “When the pieces of a new collection arrive, we try them all on ourselves. A garment must be worn and used; it’s the only way to understand if it’s comfortable and fits well. Our brand starts from a need for functionality, not from a fashion concept. We also value feedback from those who wear our pieces—friends, customers, and retailers,” they say.

The visual identity of the collections represents their idea of an understated, functional way of dressing. “Our retailers tell us that customers often buy the full look as we designed it. It’s rare for someone to buy just one item, even though the pieces are easy to combine. They buy a product, but also a way of being,” Ferrero concludes.

Credits

Creative director Susanna Cucco, photography Antonio Dicorato, makeup Sofia Foiera @blendmanagement, hair Sergio Sorbello @blendmanagement, casting Carlotta Saroldi @simobart, photography assistant Simone Fico, creative assistans Karmen Sinic and Ginevra Soldi, talents Ana Eva @prodigymanagement and Itu Nuola @next management