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Fashion
Kiko Kostadinov FW26 at Paris Fashion Week: Japanese denim and the Bulgarian diaspora
Laura and Deanna Fanning present Kiko Kostadinov Fall Winter 2026 womenswear through architectural tailoring, urban plumage textures, and the observer–observed dynamic
Fashion
Hermès: how the quietest house became the loudest name in luxury
Hermès and the re-definition of  quiet luxury – the show proves why restraint remains the most powerful force in fashion
Fashion
Balenciaga – is the couturier still alive?
Pierpaolo Piccioli arrives at Balenciaga without erasing Demna. Between Cristóbal’s legacy, Ozempic silhouettes and Euphoria references, Piccioli sits somewhere near the definition of couturier
Magazine
Fashion
Recycled fiberglass leads Trotter’s first Bottega chapter
Louise Trotter introduces recycled fiberglass as a material language at Bottega Veneta. Milan's Brutalist architecture provides the reference; Veneto craft anchors the construction
Magazine
Fashion
About Antonin Tron at Balmain: can craft survive the celebrity crush? 
Who is Antonin Tron at Balmain? From couture roots to social media empire, Balmain’s history, financial data and Rousteing’s legacy set the stage for a material-first vision
Magazine
Fashion
Jonathan Anderson and the Power at Dior: creativity, merchandising and celebrity crush
Between atelier discipline and graphic t-shirts, from cinephile obsession to the collective wardrobe: JW Anderson converts film into product; and celebrities into a distribution channel for couture
Humanities
Female self-censorship: it’s my body, it’s my choice
The female body is freer than ever before, yet it’s never been as monitored as now. The runway offers options, the network decides what counts
Fashion
Fashion needs authorship above all! Gucci and those sexy brands that are movie producers
As fashion brands invest in cinema, the question is no longer communication vs. marketing, but where authorship is produced and allowed to outlast the runway cycle
Fashion
Chiuri leaves Paris behind: Fendi between Rome and milanese order
From Dior to Fendi, Chiuri dismantles the theater of haute couture and shifts the axis from Paris to Italy, balancing Rome’s legacy with Milan’s discipline
Fashion
Is it a fashion show or just some showbiz power?
With over 300 brands across New York, London, Milan and Paris—and $1.2B in MIV generated by Paris alone—runways now compete for cultural impact, celebrity reach and digital dominance
Fashion
It’s just a t-shirt: from Westwood to rebellion, politics, sex, irony
The T-shirt has never been innocent. Westwood made it a weapon, later designers polished it into branding, and today it balances history, humor and activism
Humanities
Arrested for a photoshoot – Russia’s cage system
The State does not stop at punishment – it enters the body, lets it bleed, suffocate and deteriorate without care or urgency. Detention, feminist art and the cage of Putin’s Russia
Sex
Sweat and rivalry: what happen when male bodies get too close
Locker rooms, showers and other discreet architectures have shaped male desire through rivalry, discipline and enforced proximity, from American art and cinema to photography and fashion
Sex
Reframing desire through vintage erotic magazines: Jürgen Maelfeyt
An exploration of how 70s and 80s vintage erotic magazines shaped the visual language of intimacy, fragmentation, and sensual ambiguity in Maelfeyt’s trilogy
Fashion
Matthieu Blazy and Couture as an exercise of power
Between strategic caution and craftsmanship as content, Matthieu Blazy’s first Haute Couture uses Couture as an instrument of control, rather than a space for creative assertion
Fashion
Jonathan Anderson, Dior, and the British Cultural Scratch
Dissidence, irony, and controlled provocation. This is the British contribution to a house that more than any other embodies wealth, heritage, and symbolic power
Textile Fibers
SA SU PHI: Italian knitwear built on proportion and purity
Brainchild of Sara Ferrero and of art director Susanna Cucco, an introduction to SA SU PHI: three-dimensional volumes, a balance of full and void
Fashion
Fashion Creativity must be restrained: only if you are constrained, you push it forward
When fashion can no longer expand through excess, it turns inward: constraints on materials, production, and image become the new territory where creativity proves its intelligence and its force
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Italia
Impegno civile
Milano e gli alberi: se manca il verde, il costo della vita cresce
Crisi abitativa a Milano: il 50% dei residenti ha bisogno di case accessibili – e con 1.500 euro mensili può permettersi di acquistare un’abitazione di 15 mq. Claudio Bertona, fondatore di Brand for the City Crisi abitativa e fratture sociali A Milano, la cosiddetta “fascia grigia” a risentirne maggiormente perché «troppo ricca per accedere a […]
Moda
Veronica Yoko Plebani: il corpo, il dissenso e il peso di una bandiera
Portabandiera alla cerimonia di apertura delle Paralimpiadi a Verona, Veronica Yoko Plebani riflette sulla necessità di espandere l’idea di corpo, sabotare la retorica, trattare con il sistema senza farsi travolgere
Filiera Italiana
Canapa: l’esperimento industriale di Canapuglia, come procede
Con una nuova sede da duemila metri quadri e due linee di trasformazione, Canapuglia tenta di accorciare la distanza tra campo, impianto e mercato nella filiera della canapa
Moda
Demna, la prima sfilata per Gucci: sesso, quanto sesso, voglio sesso
Con un richiamo culturale al Rinascimento e al corpo umano libero dai pregiudizi medioevali, Demna per Gucci manda in scena un invito ossessivo all’eccitazione sessuale
Moda
Nella moda, la creatività si deve imporre limiti e regole
La creatività non si espande in superficie, ma scende in profondità. Limiti, restrizioni, regole – sono tecnica per nuova abilità di design: niente sintetico, solo fibra naturale: che sia finalmente futuro?
Moda
Giorgio Armani, un inedito di Mina e la società pop italiana
Per la prima volta una donna, Silvana Armani, firma la sua completa visione della sfilata di Giorgio Armani: una donna per le donne e una cover inedita di Mina
Moda
Niente nostalgia: Fendi per Maria Grazia Chiuri
Maria Grazia Chiuri prosegue con Fendi la sua speculazione sulla parola applicata alla moda: politica, sociologia, impegno compongono l’identità di una donna
Moda
Franca Sozzani, Paving the way, il documentario – la moda ha ancora bisogno di lei
Il documentario Paving the Way vuole sottolineare quale sia il messaggio che ancora oggi rimane dal lavoro e dal carattere di Franca Sozzani – nonostante oggi la moda sia in difficoltà
Tracciabilità
Cosa sono le microplastiche e perché i tessuti ne rilasciano molte
Miliardi di microfibre provenienti dai vestiti finiscono nei mari e nel corpo umano. Nuove ricerche, normative europee e filtri obbligatori in Francia dal 2025 provano a contenere il fenomeno
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READER
The Publishing Industry
Uroš Kramberger: at Grünwaschen, sustainability is not a marketing slogan
Greenwashing has become a buzzword – founded by Uroš Kramberger, Grünwaschen in Berlin supports independent designers with ethical fashion and fair labor standards 
Reportage
Lampoon and LabSolue at W Florence for the Greenest Fragrance: Canapa N381
Canapa N381 is unveiled during Pitti Uomo at W Florence as a limited edition Eau de Parfum by Lampoon and LabSolue, bringing hemp back into focus within contemporary perfume research
Hotels
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Perfume List
Solsequium, the sun’s own flower: Ffern Summer 25
A fragrance house rewriting the codes of perfumery, where scarcity is the new abundance and a summer sunset an eternal dream
When the Gong Rings: Floraïku Turns Afternoon Tea into Perfume
Floraïku’s latest eau de parfum traces the arc of a gong strike, echoing the mindful swell and release of afternoon tea rituals—each moment sweetened by the allure of traditional dorayaki
How Maison Margiela’s Replica Line Bottled Winter’s Essence
From Chamonix’s Snow-Covered Chalets to the Lab: By the Fireplace, part of the Replica collection, draws on the nostalgia of 1970s Chamonix, blending raw materials and alpine culture into a fragrance
Diptyque Re-lights the Neon of the Orphéon
More than half a century later, Diptyque has returned to that ember-lit cradle of its creativity, transforming memories of sax riffs and swirling cigarette ribbons into a limited-edition collection that puts the club’s name, Orphéon, in lights once again
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Hemp
Naturally Sourced
Hempcrete: the building material that sequesters CO₂
How hemp could become a game changer in the construction industry: a smaller footprint than traditional concrete and the ability to sequester CO₂ for up to one hundred years
Naturally Sourced
Do you need to apply for a license to grow hemp in New York?
A multidisciplinary team at Cornell collaborates to enhance hemp cultivation and resource sharing within the industry, backed by state funding and focused on research and education
Textile Fibers
Manila Hemp is better known as Abaca Fiber: what is it?
The Sustainable Alternative to Glass Fiber: Manila Hemp (aka Abaca Fiber) - tensile strength, seawater resistance it’s willing to surpass hundreds of millions by 2030
Textile Fibers
Hemp activewear and denim: higher yield and less water consumption
Robert Jungmann shares insights gained over 30 years, noting advancements that allow for innovative blends of hemp in textiles. Improvements that paved the way for hemp activewear options
Naturally Sourced
Hemp biocomposites: food packaging solutions using hemp biomass
An international team of scientists studies the valorization of hemp biocomposites, revealing its potential in developing sustainable food packaging solutions
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