Tag: Fashion
About Antonin Tron at Balmain: can craft survive the celebrity crush?
Who is Antonin Tron at Balmain? From couture roots to social media empire, Balmain’s history, financial data and Rousteing’s legacy set the stage for a material-first vision
Jonathan Anderson and the Power at Dior: creativity, merchandising and celebrity crush
Between atelier discipline and graphic t-shirts, from cinephile obsession to the collective wardrobe: JW Anderson converts film into product; and celebrities into a distribution channel for couture
Fashion needs authorship above all! Gucci and those sexy brands that are movie producers
As fashion brands invest in cinema, the question is no longer communication vs. marketing, but where authorship is produced and allowed to outlast the runway cycle
Chiuri leaves Paris behind: Fendi between Rome and milanese order
From Dior to Fendi, Chiuri dismantles the theater of haute couture and shifts the axis from Paris to Italy, balancing Rome’s legacy with Milan’s discipline
Is it a fashion show or just some showbiz power?
With over 300 brands across New York, London, Milan and Paris—and $1.2B in MIV generated by Paris alone—runways now compete for cultural impact, celebrity reach and digital dominance
It’s just a t-shirt: from Westwood to rebellion, politics, sex, irony
The T-shirt has never been innocent. Westwood made it a weapon, later designers polished it into branding, and today it balances history, humor and activism
90s revisited: nostalgia for dirt, desire, and irreverent fornication
Why 1990s and Early 2000s Nostalgia Still Shapes Fashion and Culture? The decade that promised endless growth, liberal optimism, and global stability has become the default reference point for the...
Is Valentino Couture about desire – or about voyeurism and denial?
One hole in the wall, many readings: Alessandro Michele’s Valentino couture show becomes a device of voyeurism, a controlled fashion spectacle where desire is visible, regulated, and denied
Matthieu Blazy and Couture as an exercise of power
Between strategic caution and craftsmanship as content, Matthieu Blazy’s first Haute Couture uses Couture as an instrument of control, rather than a space for creative assertion
Jonathan Anderson, Dior, and the British Cultural Scratch
Dissidence, irony, and controlled provocation. This is the British contribution to a house that more than any other embodies wealth, heritage, and symbolic power
Zegna, district, manufacturing: is this the only story we need?
It is not fashion. It is work. The “well made,” the cloth that stays in the wardrobe: the Zegna method and what Northern Italian enterprise still teaches
To Love Milan, We Still Need Armani
We need to insist on what Milan looks like. The city’s palette is gray, never flat, altered by rain. Armani, today under the direction of Leo Dell’Orco, remains the clearest...
It’s Prada, Prada again, always Prada. Why are we so obsessed? It’s that sense of balance
In fashion, obsession means Prada. How does Miuccia Prada, also in dialogue with Raf Simons’ cool detachment, continue to rediscover—and redefine—the identity of Milan?
How Richert Beil shapes garments from grit
From latex tailoring to deadstock suiting, Richert Beil’s work sits in the friction between instinct and resistance—imperfection, limitation and delay are part of the process
The rhythm of the body. How Tidjane Tall shifts posture
Shaping presence through movement, Tidjane Tall builds garments that carry a sense of balance — between body, material, and intention
Carly Scott SOAP, automatic purity: a car wash is about your life
The first car wash was born from the belief that purity could be engineered - for Lampoon / SOAP, Carly Scott turns the industrial car wash into a confessional of...
The difference between fashion and style – and the measure of Armani
The Giorgio Armani company: 50 years of activity and operation – style, fashion and measure, pioneering sustainability, message, and Milan’s rough architects
Librairie Sans Titre, Paris. An independent-publishers and artists’ hunter
Finding the spot was a chance event for Mathilde de Galbert, who discovered what she says «looked like a bookshop», while cycling around the neighborhood, one Sunday morning
Sander Lak: navigating the industry with deadstock and smaller scale production
A conversation with Sander Lak on leaving Sies Marjan, exploring work beyond fashion, and returning with a label built on deadstock fabrics and creative independence
Matthieu Blazy at Chanel: What Does It Mean?
A creative director and some consistency: is Matthieu Blazy ready to redefine the visual narrative of Chanel? A story of craftsmanship, material research, and a less ephemeral idea of celebrity...
The art of exit: fashion designers writing their final chapter
From Sunnei’s auction-like finale to Alexander McQueen’s silent salon and Tom Ford’s boardroom battle: each exit reshaped not only a personal career but the direction of entire fashion houses and...
Are the new creative directors interested in sustainability?
A retrospective on whether and how the new creative directors are addressing sustainability – from small independent brands to major fashion houses, from Duran Lantink to Balenciaga
Over the Rainbow: cinema, erotic photography, and poetry at Centre Pompidou
After the release of the song Over The Rainbow from Wizard of Oz, ‘a friend of Dorothy's’ became a code name to discuss homosexuality in the 70s at the Centre...
Setchu: Satoshi Kuwata on Japanese principles and the leather supply chain
“I traveled to Zimbabwe, met the people, saw the process. I didn’t want an abstract version of sustainability.” An interview with Setchu’s Satoshi Kuwata on materials and transparent sourcing
Armani’s story is an explanation of work ethic
Giorgio Armani, the fashion paradox and the fight against consumerism: we don't need to produce in a continuous flow, we have to teach our customers to buy less
0FR Paris, emerging publications under the aegis of Alexandre Thumerelle
0FR is set up with towering piles of books in a room forming a maze-like path through stacks of print publications: a conversation with Alexandre Thumerelle on independent emerging publications
Who are the Boomers? The ones who dismiss the word “sustainability”
Sustainability is an overused word, dangerously close to losing its meaning — and Boomers are quick to dismiss it, even though it remains the only reliable code of critical thinking
Maria Luisa Frisa and the political value of fashion
Fashion needs a political message: activism, disruption, obsession – fashion is no longer just a creative matter. The responses of Maria Luisa Frisa
Jonathan Anderson’s Dior: Merging Raw Edge with Classicism
Collars embodied the split personality: one edge pressed and buttoned with couture precision, the other casually sprung upward. At Dior, Jonathan Anderson brings roughness into dialogue with polish
The Broken Arm, Paris. The blurred line between art and life
Simplicity of materials can draw attention to garments, artwork, literature and music on display: thinking can matter more than buying, according to the trio Joste, Lafarge and Steinmetz
The LVMH’s foundation pays homage to Basquiat and Warhol collaborations in Paris
Under Foundation Louis Vuitton's spotlight: A collaboration between Basquiat and Warhol, two of the most celebrated artists of the 20th century
Caterina Ravaglia: vegetable tanning is a personal mission
A custom mesh machine, recyclable metal, suede underlay, artisanal choices: Caterina Ravaglia for Kate Cate—no shortcuts to fast fashion
Red, love, perfection and cruelty – Valentino and Giancarlo Giammetti
The Valentino Garavani & Giancarlo Giammetti Foundation unveils Orizzonti Rosso at PM23—an homage to the signature hue that defines their story. More than glittering parties and fairy-tale princesses, their vision once...
Stories of power and sustainability: what does Avignon’s arc mean today?
La cronaca cattolica e Louis Vuitton al Palazzo dei Papi: la vita in un centro di provincia è un percorso di sostenibilità – Avignone, sito dell’Unesco, filiera corta e occupazione...
Maria Grazia Chiuri in Rome at Villa Albani: after nine years of activism at Dior
Maria Grazia Chiuri ends her tenure at Dior with a show at Villa Albani and a string of Roman references: Mimi Pecci Blunt, Teatro Cometa, Pietro Ruffo’s zodiac, and the...
Dior show at Villa Albani Torlonia: the garden where Neoclassicism was born
In the garden that served as a laboratory of Neoclassicism—where Winckelmann and Cardinal Albani reinvented the dialogue between ancient art and nature—the show is a tribute to the cultural ties...
Chanel and Italian manufacturers: acquisitions and a show on Lake Como
On the occasion of Chanel’s show in Como, the house’s commitment to shoring up the Italian manufacturers in its supply chain—stories and snapshots from the annals of Italian style
Anna Wintour and Donald Trump: same culture, same Boomer attitude
Met Gala 2025: the same useless swagger—because only money matters; no future, no sustainability. Trump’s “Drill Baby Drill” becomes Wintour’s “Drill Baby Dance”
Community as brand infrastructure: Nada van Dalen and Rotterdam’s independent creative scene
Positioning is the asset – fashion designer Nada van Dalen, photographer Ari Versluis and stylist Ellie Uyttenbroek examine what independence means in a globalised fashion system
Alessia Gunawan: Energia Nostalgia
We’ll take anything to free ourselves from that sense of nihilism we feel when we stand there, like fools, scrolling a phone screen
Brunello Cucinelli: “I was a farmer, I was poor, I was crazy in love with the sky”
Imprenditoria etica: a Napoli, il conferimento honoris causa del dottorato di ricerca per il made in Italy a Brunello Cucinelli – un caso di sostenibilità umana e una domanda sul...
In Paris, the Gallery Perrotin hosts artist Bernar Venet and painter Susumu Kamijo
Parisian Gallery Perrotin and bookstore, with the same name, has locations in New York, Tokyo, Seoul, Hong Kong and Shanghai, displaying world class art and merchandise
Septieme Gallery, Paris: Julie Banâtre and Léa Perier Loko, the second location in Benin
Situated in the Rue de l’Université of the 7th Arrondissement area, the building was built in the Haussmannien style – the gallery is an amalgamation of tradition and modernity
Definition of Sustainability: Fashion Without Microplastics
It has become a common refrain—among buyers as well as certain managers—to say that sustainability doesn’t sell, when in fact sustainability simply isn’t on offer. The entire fashion industry is...
Smith&Son Paris. A tale of a street
Smith&Son Paris on 248 Rue de Rivoli, near Place de la Concorde, is the longest branch to have remained in its original setting
Cahier Central, Paris: A physical store where «some printed publications have to die»
«Our aim in starting Cahier Central was to say yes and not shy away from new and experimental publications» in conversation with co-founder Julien Achard
