Cashmere and Re-Cashmere: from natural fiber to regenerated fabric

What is cashmere made of? A reflection on the environmental impact of this natural fiber – while regenerated cashmere reshapes the textile supply chain: certifications, traceability, and innovation

Cashmere: Origin and Transformation of the Fiber

Cashmere is a natural fiber obtained from the undercoat of the Capra hircus goat, a species mainly found in regions with harsh winters and significant temperature variations, such as Mongolia, China, Iran, and Afghanistan. The challenging environment in which these goats live encourages the development of a soft and insulating undercoat, essential for protecting the animal against low temperatures. Renowned for its softness and thermal properties, cashmere owes its strength and elasticity to keratin, a protein that forms its main structure.

Fiber collection takes place during the spring molting period, when goats naturally shed their undercoat. The most commonly used method, manual combing, carefully separates the fine fiber (down) from the coarser guard hair, thereby preserving its quality. However, the annual yield is quite limited: on average, each animal produces only about 150–200 grams of fiber suitable for spinning, while the coarser portion is discarded. Before reaching the final yarn, the fibers undergo additional sorting by color, length, and purity, followed by a meticulous washing process to eliminate impurities and excess lanolin. The “dehairing” phase, which removes the longer, tougher hairs, further reduces the amount of usable material, making cashmere a relatively rare and valuable raw material.

Global annual production of raw cashmere stands at around 15,000 to 20,000 tons. Although this may seem like a large quantity, it is halved by the cleaning and separation processes. The exclusivity and labor-intensive nature of the production, combined with the remarkable properties of the fiber, have contributed to cashmere’s worldwide reputation and justify its high price on international markets.

Environmental Impact and Sustainability of Cashmere

The growth in global demand for cashmere has led many herders to increase the number of goats, exacerbating the issue of overgrazing. In Mongolia, for example, pressure on pastureland has resulted in progressive soil degradation. According to a Nature Conservancy study, 70% of Mongolian pastures are compromised. Goats graze plants down to the roots, preventing regrowth and accelerating desertification. Climate change further compounds this issue, magnifying soil erosion and biodiversity loss.

The economic sustainability of herding communities is also at risk, as the gradual reduction of available pastures endangers flocks and threatens future income. In this context, the cashmere industry is called upon to explore more responsible breeding models and solutions that safeguard animal welfare and ecosystem health, without neglecting the needs of local populations.

Virgin Cashmere and Recycled Cashmere

Producing virgin cashmere—relying solely on the fiber obtained from goats—entails a considerable use of natural resources and a significant impact on grazing areas. In response to these challenges, the practice of using recycled cashmere, obtained from discarded garments or industrial production scraps, is on the rise. Through the processes of shredding and carding, it is possible to create a new yarn at a lower environmental cost compared to virgin cashmere. Estimates suggest reductions in water consumption of up to 90%, energy usage by 80%, and CO₂ emissions by over 90%.

However, there are technical considerations to keep in mind. The recycling process shortens the fibers and may reduce yarn strength. Some companies, in order to preserve the fiber’s performance, mix a percentage of virgin cashmere with the recycled fiber. This balance between new and reclaimed materials helps maintain the characteristic softness and insulating power of cashmere, while still achieving a much lower environmental impact than traditional intensive farming.

Ettore Mariotti of TesmaWool

“Our goal is to mitigate the impact of recycled cashmere along the entire production chain, without compromising the quality and reliability of the final product,” says Ettore Mariotti of TesmaWool. “The main challenge is ensuring constant control over the origin of the raw material. For this reason, every single purchase of used sweaters is accompanied by certified documentation that attests to their origin and quality. Our selection process is done manually, to ensure that only the best material is reused. This system allows us to guarantee a final product that retains the properties of virgin cashmere, yet with a significantly reduced environmental impact. Every year, we purchase over 320,000 kg of used sweaters, producing about 290,000 kg of recycled fiber, thus ensuring significant savings in both CO₂ emissions and water. We avoid unnecessary dyeing, bringing water consumption down to zero, and optimize electricity usage.”

Recovery and Processing Methods

The recycling process for cashmere aligns with circular economy principles. Collection is carried out through two channels: post-consumer, meaning discarded garments, and pre-consumer, which includes industrial production scraps. The material is manually sorted by color and composition, avoiding the need for new dyes and reducing environmental impact.

Shredding breaks down the fabric into fibers, which are then carded to produce a new yarn. This preserves the thermal properties of cashmere, although there is some loss of fiber length. To counterbalance this, certain companies add a percentage of virgin cashmere, improving the yarn’s performance without undermining the overall environmental savings.

Marco and Matteo Mantellassi of Manteco

“We have adopted strategies to reduce textile waste and support low-impact production,” say Marco and Matteo Mantellassi of Manteco. “One key element is retaining the skills needed to sort and process recycled fibers. The ability to recognize and classify raw materials, combined with technological innovation, makes it possible to obtain high-quality regenerated fabrics. Careful selection of used garments and the use of advanced carding and spinning processes are essential to preserving the original characteristics of cashmere. In 2024, our fabrics were certified as Cashmere Noble® and received EPD certification, enabling brands to track sustainability throughout the supply chain. We use about 60% recycled cashmere in our production, avoiding the use of synthetic fibers wherever possible.”

Certifications and Traceability in the Textile Supply Chain

International certifications ensure transparency throughout the supply chain. The Global Recycled Standard certifies that at least 20% of the material used comes from recycled fibers, though some companies go well beyond this threshold, using up to 95% recycled cashmere in their products.

Certain brands have introduced circular economy initiatives, incentivizing the return of used garments for recycling and offering digital traceability systems. The adoption of blockchain technology within the textile supply chain makes it possible to verify the origin of the material and monitor every step of the production process.

Malo – ICEA-Certified Cashmere

“Our ICEA-certified cashmere guarantees that every stage of processing is carried out in accordance with strict ethical and environmental criteria,” adds Malo. “We have chosen an approach that combines artisanal expertise and advanced research to minimize our production’s environmental impact. We rely exclusively on certified suppliers and work with partners who meet rigorous sustainability standards. The quality of our recycled cashmere is assured through thorough testing for strength and softness at every phase of the production process.”

“We use GOTS-certified dyes and plant-based extracts to achieve the lowest possible environmental impact in dyeing. In our production, we avoid synthetic fibers as much as possible; in certain cases, however, we include small amounts of synthetic materials to improve the yarn’s strength and durability, thus reducing the need for replacements and extending the product’s life cycle.”

Market Outlook and Ethical Innovation

The sustainability policies adopted by international brands show that recycled cashmere can be an integral component of business strategies focused on reducing environmental impact. Collaboration among companies, institutions, and consumers will be key to establishing recycled cashmere in the global market. The transition to a more sustainable production model requires a combined effort from industry and the supply chain, backed by regulations and incentives that foster circularity in textile resources.

“Ensuring transparency throughout the entire production chain is crucial for building a more responsible and accessible fashion system,” conclude Marco and Matteo Mantellassi of Manteco. “That is why we have partnered with the same suppliers for years, reinforcing traceability and optimizing the recovery of production scraps, creating a closed-loop system from which both the producer and the brand benefit.”

Alessia Caliendo