Can hemp become a fragrance, or is it still just raw material?

Canapa N318 by LabSolue uses Cannabis sativa L. as an olfactory raw material, isolating terpenes through low-yield distillation and integrating them into a controlled formulation system

Hemp fragrance: Canapa N318 and the use of Cannabis sativa L. in perfumery

Canapa N318 is a limited-edition fragrance developed by LabSolue in collaboration with Lampoon. The project is structured around Cannabis sativa L. as a botanical raw material. In contemporary perfumery, hemp remains marginal and largely confined to research contexts. Only its aromatic fraction is used — monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes naturally present in flowers and leaves — while psychoactive compounds are excluded. Molecules such as myrcene, α-pinene, β-pinene, limonene, and β-caryophyllene define an olfactory profile that moves between green, resinous, woody, and lightly spicy tonalities.

Variability and distillation: why hemp is difficult to standardize

From an agronomic and chemical perspective, hemp is unstable. Terpene concentration depends on cultivar genetics, climate conditions, soil composition, cultivation techniques, and drying phases. Steam distillation isolates the volatile fraction, yet the yield rarely exceeds 0.1% of fresh biomass. Small variations in harvest timing or distillation parameters can alter the final scent. In perfumery, this variability prevents standardization. Each batch requires individual evaluation before entering formulation. As Ambra Martone notes, formulation does not eliminate variability; it organizes it within a controlled structure.

Beyond soliflore: formulation as structure rather than replication

LabSolue approaches natural ingredients as complex chemical systems rather than fixed olfactory identities. Each fragrance is named after a central ingredient, without aiming at literal reproduction. In Canapa N318, the hemp extract becomes the starting point of a wider compositional architecture designed to absorb fluctuations between batches. Materials with compatible terpene behavior, including white sage and artemisia, reinforce herbal continuity. Citrus and spices regulate evaporation across top and heart notes, while heavier base notes stabilize persistence. Reproducibility is achieved through structure, not simplification.

From fiber to publishing: Lampoon and the translation of material into image

The collaboration with Lampoon extends the project into editorial and visual research. The limited-edition packaging, developed by Lampoon’s creative team, interprets hemp as fiber, surface, and concept. Agricultural processes — harvesting, maceration, fiber separation — are translated into visual language. Graphic design and packaging act as structural components of the narrative, positioning the fragrance within a dialogue between perfumery, publishing, and material investigation.

LabSolue and the Martone family: an industrial and olfactory archive

Founded in Milan in 2013 by Giorgia and Ambra Martone, LabSolue operates as an olfactory library organized by raw material families. The brand is connected to Magna Pars L’Hotel à Parfum in the Navigli district, where scent defines the hospitality model through an olfactory check-in and suites dedicated to individual ingredients. The project builds on the Martone family’s industrial history in cosmetics and fragrance production since the 1940s. Laboratory control, refill systems, and measurable sustainability parameters define its operational structure.

Agricola Genesi: controlled cultivation and cannabinoid research

The supply chain includes Agricola Genesi, an indoor hydroponic farm near Modena. The company manages post-harvest processing internally and collaborates with universities on cannabinoid analysis and agronomic research. This integration allows for control over raw material quality and consistency, within the limits imposed by the plant’s natural variability.

TEAM photography Antonio Giancaspro, styling Rachel Simone, grooming Greta Ceccotti, set design Martina Sanzarello, production Nicholas Luca, casting Giulia Sgobba, photography assistant Alice Cairo, talent Audrey Hargett

Thanks to Agricola Genesi