Review
Hermès: how the quietest house became the loudest name in luxury
Hermès and the re-definition of quiet luxury – the show proves why restraint remains the most powerful force in fashion
Kiko Kostadinov FW26 at Paris Fashion Week: Japanese denim and the Bulgarian diaspora
Laura and Deanna Fanning present Kiko Kostadinov Fall Winter 2026 womenswear through architectural tailoring, urban plumage textures, and the observer–observed dynamic
Balenciaga – is the couturier still alive?
Pierpaolo Piccioli arrives at Balenciaga without erasing Demna. Between Cristóbal’s legacy, Ozempic silhouettes and Euphoria references, Piccioli sits somewhere near the definition of couturier
Recycled fiberglass leads Trotter’s first Bottega chapter
Louise Trotter introduces recycled fiberglass as a material language at Bottega Veneta. Milan's Brutalist architecture provides the reference; Veneto craft anchors the construction
Female self-censorship: notes on female rage
The female body is freer than ever before, yet it’s never been as monitored as now. The runway offers options, the network decides what counts
About Antonin Tron at Balmain: can craft survive the celebrity crush?
Who is Antonin Tron at Balmain? From couture roots to social media empire, Balmain’s history, financial data and Rousteing’s legacy set the stage for a material-first vision
Jonathan Anderson and the Power at Dior: creativity, merchandising and celebrity crush
Between atelier discipline and graphic t-shirts, from cinephile obsession to the collective wardrobe: JW Anderson converts film into product; and celebrities into a distribution channel for couture
Fashion needs authorship above all! Gucci and those sexy brands that are movie producers
As fashion brands invest in cinema, the question is no longer communication vs. marketing, but where authorship is produced and allowed to outlast the runway cycle
Chiuri leaves Paris behind: Fendi between Rome and milanese order
From Dior to Fendi, Chiuri dismantles the theater of haute couture and shifts the axis from Paris to Italy, balancing Rome’s legacy with Milan’s discipline
How do I like your saliva? It’s all over my tongue
From kisses to couture, fashion reclaims intimacy as cultural value: touch and human connection drive campaigns and collections from Moncler to Prada, Dior, and Rick Owens
Is it a fashion show or just some showbiz power?
With over 300 brands across New York, London, Milan and Paris—and $1.2B in MIV generated by Paris alone—runways now compete for cultural impact, celebrity reach and digital dominance
We Are All Intellectuals Now: The Condom as Artistic Fetish
From Olympic distribution and public health campaigns to museum collections and fashion collaborations, condoms are the epitome of a recurring provocation
Hot & Sporty, the uniform makers: Ralph Lauren and the Olympic Journey
After ten Olympic Games, Ralph Lauren combines design and Made-in-USA production to release a relaxed Team USA wardrobe that recalls countless sporty hotties
It’s just a t-shirt: from Westwood to rebellion, politics, sex, irony
The T-shirt has never been innocent. Westwood made it a weapon, later designers polished it into branding, and today it balances history, humor and activism
Do you still want gossip? We talk about stainless steel cigarette holders
A wall fitted with steel holders marks out a small sanctuary for gossip: Chisme Corner by Ananas Ananas shows how durable materials can contain forms of speech
Daniel Kolodziejczak: I design the way an engineer might
Nothing hidden, no decoration that conceals the system - Daniel Kolodziejczak: a designer translating structure into marble, wood, geometry
Pillion: BDSM & Kinky Sex – why do you want to dominate me?
Harry Lighton’s Pillion frames kink as emotional architecture, using BDSM rituals, negotiated power exchange, and consent culture to interrogate contemporary relationship models
Sweat and rivalry: what happen when male bodies get too close
Locker rooms, showers and other discreet architectures have shaped male desire through rivalry, discipline and enforced proximity, from American art and cinema to photography and fashion
What does the RCTA term mean on TikTok?
RCTA (Race Change To Another) is both a popular term and a trend that has gone viral on social media platforms, like TikTok. What does RCTA mean?
90s revisited: nostalgia for dirt, desire, and irreverent fornication
Why 1990s and Early 2000s Nostalgia Still Shapes Fashion and Culture? The decade that promised endless growth, liberal optimism, and global stability has become the default reference point for the...
Reframing desire through vintage erotic magazines: Jürgen Maelfeyt
An exploration of how 70s and 80s vintage erotic magazines shaped the visual language of intimacy, fragmentation, and sensual ambiguity in Maelfeyt’s trilogy
Is Valentino Couture about desire – or about voyeurism and denial?
One hole in the wall, many readings: Alessandro Michele’s Valentino couture show becomes a device of voyeurism, a controlled fashion spectacle where desire is visible, regulated, and denied
Matthieu Blazy and Couture as an exercise of power
Between strategic caution and craftsmanship as content, Matthieu Blazy’s first Haute Couture uses Couture as an instrument of control, rather than a space for creative assertion
Jonathan Anderson, Dior, and the British Cultural Scratch
Dissidence, irony, and controlled provocation. This is the British contribution to a house that more than any other embodies wealth, heritage, and symbolic power
Zegna, district, manufacturing: is this the only story we need?
It is not fashion. It is work. The “well made,” the cloth that stays in the wardrobe: the Zegna method and what Northern Italian enterprise still teaches
To Love Milan, We Still Need Armani
We need to insist on what Milan looks like. The city’s palette is gray, never flat, altered by rain. Armani, today under the direction of Leo Dell’Orco, remains the clearest...
It’s Prada, Prada again, always Prada. Why are we so obsessed? It’s that sense of balance
In fashion, obsession means Prada. How does Miuccia Prada, also in dialogue with Raf Simons’ cool detachment, continue to rediscover—and redefine—the identity of Milan?
SA SU PHI: Italian knitwear built on proportion and purity
Brainchild of Sara Ferrero and of art director Susanna Cucco, an introduction to SA SU PHI: three-dimensional volumes, a balance of full and void
Canapa N318 Eau de Parfum: a collaboration between Lampoon and LabSolue
Ambra Martone presents Canapa N318 Eau de Parfum, a fragrance that brings hemp back to the center of contemporary olfactory creation
Balkan Aesthetics: the last frontier of authenticity?
From contemporary art and social media to bunker bars and stucco columns, Balkan aesthetics offer an antidote to globalized smoothness: Alterazioni Video’s Olbania and Šejla Kamerić’s Bosnian Girl
Holy water in plastic bottles: Crossover, Anastasia Sosunova and the crisis of belonging
A mass-produced white sock becomes a relic after touching Orthodox martyrs: artist Anastasia Sosunova and curator Chiara Nuzzi discuss fake faith and belief systems in Crossover at Fondazione ICA Milano
Feminine literacy, when the feminine is methodology
Feminine literacy looks at design from a different angle. It listens to voices and places that are ignored and asks how we can create things that care for people, nature...
Time has feelings: messing with the Royal Oak
Through a lens that flirts with discomfort, these images treats metal, gold, and ceramic like living matter, reimagining high horology as something tactile, flawed, and strangely human. Lampoon SOAP
Why do we keep dating men? Heterofatalism and straight desire
An exploration of the absurd paradox at the heart of straight dating: we know the system is broken, we expect disappointment, yet desire refuses to die – turning heterofatalism into...
Sam Sala introduces Diathomee: sound and video from microscopic algae
Drawing from diatom microscopy and field recordings, Sam Sala’s Diathomee translates the microscopic scale into a visceral audiovisual language
The rhythm of the body. How Tidjane Tall shifts posture
Shaping presence through movement, Tidjane Tall builds garments that carry a sense of balance — between body, material, and intention
Neue Welle: Berlin’s post-punk legacy and a new generation
A small group of musicians and drifters in Berlin rewires post-punk style: Marina Mónaco turns VHS nights and shared bedrooms into a raw map of the city
Satinine’s rebirth: a Milanese fragrance legend returns to claim its future
A conversation with Andrea Galletti on reviving Satinine: from chromatographic decoding of 1930s formulas to rebuilding Art déco design codes and a fully Italian supply chain for true in-house perfumery
Mary Kelly: seventy years of global conflict through domestic life
On show at Pippy Houldsworth Gallery, Mary Kelly uses dryer lint, letters, and press fragments to trace how decades of global conflict leave their mark on the ordinary aspects of...
Shall your fantasy be dismissed by some artificial intelligence?
The exhibition Cartier & Myths in Rome forces us back to the place where fantasy is born – the realm of myth – with a challenging question: will we remain...
How to Peel yourself: the ritual of shedding and becoming
In Osman Özel’s visual narrative for Lampoon SOAP, the act of cleansing becomes an intimate choreography of transformation – a meditation on identity, purity, and the art of unveiling oneself
Juergen Teller shapes Onassis Ready into a living exhibition: You are invited
Juergen Teller arrives in Athens not in a white cube: You are invited explores intimacy, archival work and new series within the unpolished framework of Onassis Ready, a former factory...
The Bi culture: does bisexuality exist?
From Seventies bisexual activism to the erasure of those living outside straight and homo definitions – Pillion, Euphoria and other movies and TV series explore how visibility can question fixed notions...
Ash, Water, Plastic: Ritual and Reality Along the Ganges
From the divine descent through Shiva’s hair to the industrial discharge of modern cities, the Ganges tells a story of devotion and ecological crisis – between purification rituals and chemical...
The Politics of Oil: Tanoa Sasraku Reframes Corporate Souvenirs as Violent Symbols
Working with found objects, sculptures, and UV-printed paper works, Tanoa Sasraku maps the destruction of the oil industry across global affairs and the environment
Charlotte Taylor: drawing the balance between fiction and structure
Between the digital and the built, Charlotte Taylor moves through worlds that mirror and inform each other — where light, weight, and narrative define how we inhabit space
