Washi, the art of Japanese papermaking: ancient craft, modern possibilities?

Japanese washi paper, a millennial UNESCO-certified heritage: what’s holding it back from becoming a sustainable solution for fashion and artisanal crafting

Washi paper – The art of traditional Japanese papermaking 

Washi paper has a history spanning over a millennium. It got worldwide recognition in 2014, when Washi paper was included among the oral and intangible heritages of humanity by UNESCO. 

It is known for being tear resistant and translucent with a good texture. It was used in Japanese culture for arts origami, shodō, the art of Japanese calligraphy and the ukiyo-e – as for ‘pictures of the floating world’ – a genre of Japanese art printed on paper with woodblocks, born and developed during the Edo period, between the beginning of the 17th and the end of the 19th century.

Now its production has decreased due to manufacturing costs and the intricate labor-intensive production process. Given its peculiar properties, is there a possibility it could be revived for the fashion and the artisanal crafting sectors as a new efficient biodegradable material?

Washi paper: from handpicked fibers of kōzo mulberry plant, does not require cutting trees

Japanese Washi is made from renewable plant resources that reach maturity in 1-2 years. 

It is crafted from the fibers of the kōzo paper mulberry plant and later undergoes a process of soaking in clear river water, thickening, and filtration through a bamboo screen. The creation of Washi involves immersing a frame in a vat filled with a chemical solution mixed with pulp and water. By skilfully maneuvering the frame, a fibrous sheet adheres to it. Subsequently, the sheet is carefully detached and placed on a flat surface, providing an opportunity for individuals to adorn their Washi with decorations before allowing it to dry.

The majority of paper is produced from wood pulp, which often involves the felling of many trees, leading to deforestation and other environmental issues. In contrast, Washi paper exclusively utilizes fresh branches that have grown within the same year, eliminating the need for tree cutting.

A solitary sheet of Washi paper can possess a thickness as minuscule as 0.02 millimeters, which is even thinner than the average human hair.

Japanese Washi paper is handmade. Too expensive to label it as ‘sustainable’ material

Washi paper is accompanied by high costs of production, which pose a challenge for its reproduction at larger scale.

In terms of raw materials alone, the cost of producing Washi can be much higher compared to Western-style paper. Moreover, the labor involved in making Washi paper is extremely intensive, with the perception among consumers that ‘Washi’ is synonymous with ‘handmade’, even when machine drying is used instead of sun-drying. As a result, the number of traditional Washi makers has dramatically declined in recent decades.

Washi papermaking: the history of the Fujimori family

In the experience of the Fujimori family in Tokushima, who have been in the paper industry for seven generations and continue the papermaking tradition following the steps of their ancestors, we learn the art of Washi paper making.

In 1945, Minoru Fujimori, of the 6th generation of the Fujimori family, took charge of the family business with a strong determination to carry on the art of Washi papermaking, despite the challenges faced in the aftermath of World War II. In recognition of his skills, Minoru-san was honored first in 1970 by being designated as an Intangible Cultural Property of Tokushima, and later, in 1986, was recognized as a Master Craftsman and was bestowed with the prestigious Sixth Class Order of Merit, Sacred Treasure by the Emperor himself. 

Tsune Fujimori, Minoru-san’s wife, also achieved Sacred Treasure status due to her mastery of indigo dyeing.

The art of washi paper at Awagami Fine Paper Factory and Yoichi Fujimori

Continuing the family legacy, Yoichi Fujimori became the 2nd master papermaker of Awagami in 2022 and was honored by the Emperor with the Order of the Sacred Treasure, Silver Rays. 

The Fujimori family remains dedicated to preserving their long-standing tradition of producing washi paper and passing it on to future generations. 

Agawami produces acid-free sheets and rolls for printmaking, painting, drawing, book arts, crafting and alt. photography. The process of Agawami paper making requires fibers extracted from three distinct plants that are steamed, boiled, and vigorously beaten until they transform into a literal pulp. This pulp is then strained into delicate sheets, which are subsequently bleached and dried under the sun.

Agawami’s extensive research has led to the inclusion of other natural fibers for Washi paper making such as bamboo, mitsumata, gampi and hemp to create papers for fine art, inkjet printing, crafts, interior design and art conservation. 

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The Nagashizuki method using Gampi fibers

The Nagashizuki method was developed by Japanese papermakers for the creation of stronger, thinner, and semi-translucent papers using gampi fibers, extracted from the Gampi, a group of Japanese shrubs in the family of the genus Wikstroemia. 

Japanese papermakers noticed that using gampi fibers in paper pulps slowed down the drainage rate. Eventually, since gampi fibers were not easily cultivable, Japanese papermakers adapted by extracting the essential viscous material – called neri – from more readily available plants.

The slower water drainage allowed the papermakers to repeatedly move the pulp mixture back and forth over the surface of the paper mold, a manual process that requires the continuous motion of the fiber mixture over the screen’s surface. This technique led to the formation of a stronger paper with fibers that intertwined more evenly.

The specific motion involved can vary depending on the type of fiber used, the desired paper outcome, and the individual papermaker. On average, it is said that a single sheet of paper takes around one minute to complete. Once the fundamental techniques are mastered, improvement comes through the elimination of unnecessary or inefficient movements. In the past, the finished papers were manually cut into specific sizes, and the deckled edges were also removed. Nowadays, maintaining the deckled edges has become a distinctive feature, serving as a testament to the handmade nature of the paper.

Washi paper making. The case of Echizen, Fukui Prefecture, Japan

While the era of mass marketability for Washi may have passed, there is a possibility that it could follow the path of vinyl records, which have become appealing to consumers who appreciate analog aesthetics and the unique charm of obsolete items.

In Echizen, for example, in the Fukui Prefecture, from a peak of over 100 businesses, only around 20 continue to produce paper entirely by hand. In the past, it was common for at least one person from each family in the area to work as a paper craftsperson. However, the current situation is different, with only around one person per 10 households pursuing this occupation. 

Washi makers are well aware of the allure of retro-chic aesthetics, and they are embracing innovation and reinvention to cater to modern audiences. While traditional offerings such as folding fans, envelopes, and notebooks remain popular, Washi paper is now being incorporated into a wide range of unexpected products. Socks, plates, earrings, and scarves are just a few examples of the diverse items where Washi is making an appearance. 

The use of Washi paper in fashion, accessories and artisanal crafting

Washi paper can be cut into intricate shapes and used as appliqués or embellishments on garments and its texture allows it to be replicated directly as prints. Designers can create clothing pieces or accessories featuring traditional Japanese motifs or modern abstract designs inspired by Washi paper. 

It can be blended with other fibers like cotton or silk or transformed into accessories such as handbags, clutches, wallets, and jewelry in combination with other materials like fabric, leather, or metal.

Washi paper is completely biodegradable and recyclable, though it’s very delicate and not suitable for heavy-duty use or frequent washing. 

Waranshi – Kengo Kuma for Fendi Men’s collection Spring Summer 2024

The award-winning Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, advocate of a healthy and balanced relationship between the built and natural environment, ​collaborated in the creation of a series of accessories for Fendi Men’s collection Spring Summer 2024 using Washi paper and specifically an hybrid material derived from it, waranshi, made from cotton and tree bark fibers. 

Focusing on two icons of the maison, Kengo Kuma has brought these three fashion objects into his design universe, made of craftsmanship and natural materials, leaving the waranshi in his raw state and color making it stand out even more against the metalwork.

The cherished Fendi icon, the Peekaboo bag, the Baguette Soft Trunk and the Flow sneakers underwent a metamorphosis. «When Fendi asked me to reflect on their bags and shoes, I thought of them as small architectural projects on a human scale», told Kuma.

By employing raw materials, the bags exude an earthy and natural aesthetic that distinguishes them from conventional designs. 

Likewise, the low-top Flow sneakers were crafted with cork, technical mesh, and Washi paper, mimicking the look and feel of a 3D design. 

Kengo Kuma

Kengo Kuma (born 1954 in Kanagawa, Japan) is a Japanese architect. After completing his master studies in architecture at the University of Tokyo in 1979, he worked for a time at Nihon Sekkei and TODA Corporation. He later moved to New York to study at Columbia University as a visiting researcher from 1985 to 1986.

In 1987, he founded the Spatial Design Studio. In 1990, Kengo Kuma & Associates, his own studio, was established. During the 1998-1999 academic year, he was a visiting professor at the Faculty of Environmental Information at Keio University. In 2008, Kuma earned a Ph.D. from Keio University.

Martina Tondo