Anomalia Paris – irregular design interpreting the roughness of the Garden of Eden

words Mariangela Peci

Jardin Humanistes was created by French perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour – Anomalia, from the Greek ‘anomalos’, expresses the concept of irregularity in glass bowls produced in ancient French furnaces

The birth of the brand Anomalia Paris

Anomalia Paris was founded in 2022 by Elena Spirina. After a career in the film and fashion industries, Spirina began experimenting with the composition of fragrances in the spring of 2020, during the first lockdown due to Coronavirus. Her passion for perfumes, which she had been collecting for fifteen years, led her to try her hand at creating essences for candles, enrolling in the Institute of Perfumery in Grasse, up to creating Anomalia. The company today presents a range of products, from Eau de Toilettes to a line of candles and home diffusers, all made in France.

**Anomalia – from the Greek word anomalos – irregularity**

Anomalia stands for genderless essences, with the aim of ‘differing from the norm’. The concept of imperfection is also expressed by the bottles, dispensers, and candle holders, which are made with an asymmetrical, faceted design that changes depending on the point of observation.

The glass is produced in France in furnaces with a long tradition, such as Pochet Du Couval, which has been in existence for more than four hundred years, and Waltersperger. Once the product is finished, the single containers can have a new identity as art and decorative objects, promoting the value of reuse. The seven proposed fragrances are called Essence(S) Versalitle(S), aiming at the creation of essences that can adapt to a wide variety of characters.

Art is claimed as another value connected to the label, not only through the design of its products, but also via collaborations ranging from photography to music. It is worth mentioning the collaboration with Daniel Ost, the world’s first flower designer, who transformed fragrances into floral compositions, immortalized in turn in the images of Belgian photographer Jean-Pierre Gabriel. Through collaboration with Coldremedy, each fragrance was transformed into a musical composition, which was then included in a seven-song playlist available on iTunes and Spotify.

The Essence(s) Versatile(s): Jardin Humanistes

Jardin Humanistes is the perfume by Anomalia Paris that reinterprets, in a contemporary key, the Garden of Eden. The scent comes from the nose Bertrand Duchaufour, a French perfumer who began his career in 1985 at the Lautier Florasynth group in Grasse, later working with mainstream and niche brands.

A legend suggests that the lily, known for its sweet fragrance, originated from Eve’s tears after she was expelled from the Garden of Eden. According to the legend, as Eve wept in sorrow and repentance, her tears fell to the ground and gave rise to the beautiful and fragrant lily flowers. This legend is often associated with the idea of the lily symbolizing purity, innocence, and the hope of redemption. It represents a connection between the human experience of loss and longing for paradise, and the beauty that can emerge even in times of sorrow.

Jardin Humanistes is the perfume by Anomalia Paris

The atmosphere Eden is suggested by the base notes of heliotrope, tuberose, cassie flower, heart notes of orange blossom, gardenia, hyacinth, and top notes of bergamot and lilly of the valley. Legend has it that the latter, with its sweet smell, was born from Eve’s tears after her exile from Eden.

Anomalia also promotes mixing of fragrances. These pairings are suggested by the Anomalia Paris website itself, which features a Best with mix section for each of the seven fragrances. In the case of Jardins Humanistes, it is recommended to mix it with Entre – Acte, Narcotic Bohemic, and Abed.

The Garden of Eden is often envisioned as a paradise with abundant vegetation

According to the biblical narrative in the Book of Genesis, the Garden of Eden was described as a lush and abundant place, filled with various types of vegetation. In Genesis 2:9, it is mentioned that God made every tree grow that is pleasant to the sight and good for food, including the “tree of life” and the “tree of the knowledge of good and evil.”

The Tree of Life is described as being in the center of the garden. It is associated with immortality and is mentioned again in the book of Revelation. As per the Tree of the Knowledge of Good and Evil: eating from this tree was forbidden by God.

The other six essences of Anomalia Paris

Anomaila’s six other essences are: Rock Rose, Acquatic Ozonic, Entre-Acte, Narcotic Bohemic, Cérémonie, and Abed. These result from collaborations with perfumers who in some cases decided to reveal their names, while in others, they preferred to remain anonymous, just as in the case of Rock Rose. This one is inspired by the cistus flower (called in English precisely Rock Rose) used among the base notes along with musk and yellow amber.

The cistus is synonymous with strength and resistance, in particular to fires. Besides, according to Greek mythology, it is also endowed with healing powers useful for those wounded in battle. The fragrance, just like cistus, celebrates life against adversity. It also features heart notes of cedarwood, patchouli, and top notes of incense and white flower bouquet. To be combined with Entre – Acte and/or Narcotic Bohemic.

Anomalia Paris – Jardins Humanistes, Rock Rose, Acquatic Ozonic, Entre-Acte, Narcotic Bohemic, Cérémonie, and Abed

Acquatic Ozonic, is a reminiscent of marine smells. Top notes include Marine Accord, a blend of salty and fresh scents combined with jasmine and mandarin, cedarwood, chamomile and pine needle essential oils. The base is made of vanilla and patchouli. To be paired with Jardins Humanistes and Entre – Acte.

Entre – Acte, combines top notes of incense, tuberose, and Immortelle, a flower so named because it never wilts, heart notes of rose and patchouli. Narcotic Bohemic is composed of top notes of cardamom, clary sage, clove, heart notes of cedarwood, coffee, orris root and base notes of tonka bean, vetiver, tobacco, leather.

Cérémonie is the fragrance created by Nicolas Bonneville: top notes of grapefruit, pineapple, cedar, frankincense, tonka beans, patchouli, leather, to recreate the sensations of a ceremony. Finally, Abed, is the perfume by Parisian perfumer Ane Ayo. Mineral Accord and iodine, heart notes of sambac jasmine absolute, tuberose, tiare flower, and base notes of vanilla planifolia infusion, peruvian balsam absolute.

Like the perfumes, the diffusers and candles have a refined glass design: the diffusers have an hourglass shape, while the candle jar is similar in shape to the classic whiskey glass and Roman columns. Once the products are finished, the diffusers can be refilled or used, as well as the candle glasses, as furnishing accessories, and design objects.