Palinurobar in Milan. Interior detail COVER
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Palinurobar in MSGM’s Celebration of Milanese Neighborhood Bar Heritage

MSGM Celebrates Milano: A Tribute to I Bar di Quartiere

For Christmas 2024, MSGM introduces I Bar di Quartiere, a project that delves into the essence of Milanese neighborhood bars, spaces that have long been the backdrop to the city’s everyday life. These bars are ecosystems where conversations flow, relationships deepen, and simple gestures, like sharing a glass of wine, reflect a collective spirit. With this initiative, MSGM celebrates the new wave of entrepreneurs who are revitalizing these beloved spaces, preserving their traditional roots while reimagining them as cultural epicenters for contemporary urban living.

MSGM has chosen four bars that capture this transformative energy. Each embodies a commitment to sustainability, the promotion of locally sourced wines, and a deep connection to the surrounding territory, offering a fresh take on authenticity and innovation. Among the selected bars, Palinurobar stands out as a beacon of this spirit. With its timeless charm and forward-thinking ethos, Palinurobar weaves together natural wine, music, and design into a multi-sensory experience. It captures the allure of 1960s Milan, infused with modern creativity, offering a glimpse into the evolving culture of the city.

The collaboration included a capsule collection of merchandise, such as T-shirts, caps, and wine bags, each featuring designs inspired by the participating bars. The MSGM x Palinurobar cap, for instance, showcased embroidered collaboration logos on the front and the “I Bar di Quartiere” logo on the back.

Palinurobar, Milan. Interior details
Palinurobar, Milan. Interior details

Palinurobar: Milan’s Intersection of Natural Wine, Music, and Art

“It’s our song. Naming it came to us automatically,” says Fabrizio Vatieri, one of the four founders of Palinurobar in Milan, located on Via Paisiello in the Città Studi area. “With the bar’s musical identity, naming it after a song felt even more fitting.”

The song in question is Palinuro Bar, a track by Neapolitan singer-songwriter Nino Buonocore from his 1980 album Acida. “We often listened to it together when Antonio worked at Champagne Socialist, where he was the host. It’s a song about a day in a bar. When we took over the place, we said, ‘We can only call it Palinurobar,'” adds Davide Coppo, one of the other partners.

A Team of Creatives Behind Palinurobar

Vatieri, originally from Naples, is a trained architect who now works as a photographer, videographer, musician, and DJ. Represented by Nowhere Gallery in Milan, he explains: “Here, I practically manage the musical aspect. Each of us has specific skills, but we always try to share our ideas. At the bar, I handle the photography and music. Nicola designed the logo and oversees the visual identity and graphics.”

Nicola Nunziata, a visual artist and designer trained in Naples and Venice, shares Vatieri’s passion for both wine and creativity. Together, they founded Op-Fot, an independent photography and video studio collaborating with brands such as Fontana Arte, Driade, CP Company, and publications including Wallpaper, Domus, La Repubblica, and Rivista Studio.

“I’m the one who wanted to open a bar,” says Antonio Crescente, the innkeeper originally from Barletta in Puglia. “I left my town when I was eighteen to pursue a football career. When I realized that wasn’t my path, I enrolled at the University of Gastronomic Sciences of Slow Food. That’s where my love for wine was born, tied to the history of my two great-grandfathers—one was an oenologist, and the other a wine industrialist in Puglia.”

Coppo, a journalist and copywriter, brings a literary touch to the venture. A longstanding member of the Rivista Studio team, he says: “Aside from Antonio, who works as the innkeeper, we all want to pursue our own paths and then, like a river, let the waters of publishing, art, and photography flow into the bar.”

Exploring Natural Wine at Palinurobar

Palinurobar’s cellar boasts over 500 natural wine labels from around the globe. Natural wine is crafted from organic grapes with minimal additives, except for small amounts of sulfur dioxide—less than 30 milligrams per liter. To be classified as natural, the wine must be produced by independent winemakers using their own vineyards, with low-yield crops and natural agronomic practices that exclude synthetic pesticides, herbicides, or insecticides. Grapes must be hand-harvested and spontaneously fermented without added yeasts or enzymes.

The selection at Palinurobar spans regions such as Carso, Etna, Calabria, the French Jura, and the Spanish Meseta. Wines are evaluated both technically and personally. “Every wine you see here has been tasted. Nothing is served without first being approved. These are all wines with a high rate of humanity,” Crescente emphasizes.

Currently, no official legislation defines natural wine or its production criteria. “It’s a protocol that doesn’t exist, but it’s universally recognized,” explains Crescente. Sustainability is also a core element: “To produce quality wines, these winemakers must be in harmony with their environment, making sustainable practices inevitable.”

The founders have even launched their own wine project, pooling their talents: Crescente managed the blend, Vatieri created the illustration, Coppo wrote the accompanying text, and Nunziata designed the label’s layout and graphics.

The name 'Palinurobar' derives from the title of a song by Nino Buonocore, taken from the album ‘Acida’, 1980
The name ‘Palinurobar’ derives from the title of a song by Nino Buonocore, taken from the album ‘Acida’, 1980

Food at Palinurobar: A Mediterranean Experiment

In this ecosystem of wine, food plays a key role. Palinurobar offers dishes made with high-quality ingredients, emphasizing creative preparation. The menu includes oysters, fermented products sourced from Pioppo Tremulo, cheeses delivered bi-weekly from Puglia, pickled vegetables, smoked lake fish, and artisanal cured meats from land and sea.

The recurring theme is “Mediterranean” with nods to Nordic and Middle Eastern cuisines in an experimental style. “Everything we do reflects a Mediterranean spirit, encompassing cultures and crossings. That’s why you might find beet hummus paired with fermented giardiniera, enjoyed while listening to a Turkish track and sipping Slovenian wine—all in the name of hospitality,” explains Crescente.

The signature dish, bread with butter and anchovies, is served on a tray designed by artist Fausto Falchi.

Palinurobar in Milan. Interior detail
Palinurobar in Milan. Interior detail

Music and Magazines: The Cultural Ecosystem of Palinurobar

Music is intrinsic to Palinurobar, where a console with turntables and a high-fidelity sound system invites diverse explorations. “There’s no dominant genre, but a continuous effort in musical research,” says Vatieri. Influences include Brilliant Corners, a Japanese restaurant in East London known for its jazz programming and natural wine selection.

For Palinurobar’s opening, the team curated playlists from contributors in contemporary art, design, and architecture, pairing these with images of parakeets photographed by Vatieri in Milan’s Lambro Park. “Parakeets aren’t native here and represent disorientation—an experience we aim to evoke in our guests.”

At Palinurobar, guests might hear Flipper, Funkadelic, Sun Ra, or an Acid House DJ set. Vatieri notes: “There’s no set mood; we play what we like. A recurring theme is Adult Oriented Rock (AOR),” a genre from the 1980s known for its melodic, keyboard-driven sound.

In addition to music, the bar features a curated magazine selection provided by Reading Room and a collection of artist books contributed by Nunziata. “We love the idea of making these publications approachable, like a magazine in a dentist’s waiting room,” Coppo says.

Design and the Legacy of Città Studi

Palinurobar occupies a former 1980s café, retaining its wooden interiors, counter, and wall paneling while incorporating custom lighting, a handmade bottle rack, and an outdoor seating area crafted by the founders. Design highlights include P08 chairs by Justus Kolberg for Tecno.

“We fell in love with the interiors,” Coppo explains. “The editorial office where I work is nearby, and I used to visit this café—Cafferino, run by two beloved women in the neighborhood. There’s a sense of passing the baton, which the community welcomed.”

Though the location choice was serendipitous, Città Studi has proven a fertile cultural ground, surrounded by art galleries, fashion showrooms, and independent magazine publishers. “We want to foster a sense of community through music and events, making Palinurobar a hub where energy and ideas converge,” Coppo concludes.

Interview by Giulia Cangianiello

Palinurobar, Milan
Via Paisiello, 28
20131 Milan

Wine bar in the Città Studi district with a curated selection of natural wines, experimental music, and a reading area featuring independent magazines and artist books. Palinurobar is a cashless establishment, promoting sustainability and combating tax evasion.

Palinurobar, the new venue in Milan, dedicated to wine lovers
Palinurobar, the new venue in Milan, dedicated to wine lovers
Music, design and visual arts characterize Palinurobar, Milan
Music, design and visual arts characterize Palinurobar, Milan
The setting is in retro style with custom designed furniture elements, Palinurobar, Milan
The setting is in retro style with custom designed furniture elements, Palinurobar, Milan
Palinurobar, Milan. A selection of over 500 wines
Palinurobar, Milan. A selection of over 500 wines
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